Remember that 50s Simplicity pattern I posted recently? Well, curiosity got the better of me, and I just had to try it. Don’t mind the fact that it’s really too chilly for a short sleeve top (that’s what sweaters are for, anyway)–the simpliness of the top appealed to me. Would it look a flattering as the envelope illustration?

The pattern piece is just a large rectangle. For a size small you only need 5/8 yard of material, for a medium-large 3/4. The pattern calls for a jersey material, so I opted for a beautiful pink, wool-blend jersey I picked up on a recent fabric shopping trip. I love the drape, although 100% wool jersey is still far superior–though a bit too expensive for my pocket book at the moment!

The only seams on the top make up a T shape along the back. The two short ends of the rectangle are sewn together to about halfway to allow for the waist-split, and the one of the long edges is sewn together, leaving an opening at either fold for the arms to pass through. Super easy! The edges are turned under and hemmed with catchstitches and a hook and eye sewn at the waist. I serged all the raw edges just to keep things neat as well. The top took me less than an evening to complete from start to finish.

Putting the top on and arranging all the fullness that falls around the neckline is a bit tricky, which is why this top won’t go on my list of “favorite blouses I wear all the time”. Because it is a bit fiddly to wear. I could tack down the folds permanently with stitches, but too be honest, I’m on to other projects right now and just don’t feel like dealing with it. lol. It’s a sweet top, but will probably be relegated to occasions that I’m not engaged in a lot of movement (on most days I sprawl and flail about a lot)–so things like dinner out.

Also wearing: thrifted skirt and brooch | MAC Viva Glam I lipstick

On a humorous note, I only realized after taking these photos that I resemble a giant pink Valentine! It’s still a little too early for that… lol. (More photos here.)

Pattern: Simplicity #4538 (1950s vintage). I made the original size to fit a 30″ to 32″ bust.

Fabric: Wool jersey blend.

Alterations: None.

Techniques: Catchstitching and serging the edges (if that can be called a “technique”).

Make Again? Perhaps. Although I’d be curious to see this in a tshirt jersey, I’m not rushing out to make it right away. Maybe later in the year!

Good morning! Thank you for the get-well wishes after yesterday’s post. I am thankfully feeling a bit more like my old self today. I took Tilly’s advice to take a day “off” and just invest in my health. I am so bad about not knowing when to relax–but I tried yesterday! Although I will admit that I did several small projects that had been on my mind for a bit… including making three headbands! But more about that later this week…

One of the first vintage patterns I bought years ago on Ebay. I still haven’t made it though… Yikes!

I thought, rather than the usual magazine/catalog scans today, I’d show you a few vintage sewing patterns. I’ve been slowly scanning all my vintage patterns so I can look through the stash without having to go pull the boxes. So what better excuse than to share a handful of my favorites with you? I do not have a very large collection of vintage patterns, and I’ve been collecting since I was 18. While I have two boxes of them, they’re rather small and just filled with pretty patterns that have caught my eye over the past 7 years and picked up as I can afford them! Hope you’ll enjoy taking a peek at my collection… (This is mostly the mid 30s through 40s patterns.)

A beautiful and trimly cut 40s suit pattern that a lovely reader sent to me recently. I just adore the frog closures up the front!

A recent Ebay win. I have been hunting for this pattern for a bit, not because it’s hard to find, but rather because it’s similar to the Claire McCardell “pop over” design!

Loving the sailor-style version at the top! Princess seam styles are always so flattering–and versatile too. Seeing this in a pretty cotton or linen for the summer.

I love the embroidery on this vintage slip and tap pants pattern. I’m itching to try to make one or the other, but need to brush up on my embroidery skills first!

Another of my first vintage pattern acquisitions. I made view 2 up years ago and it’s still my favorite apron to wear! Though it is in dire need of a replacement…

Isn’t this design fantastic? I am seriously hunting down some coordinating fabrics to make this for the spring… it just looks so comfortable and classic.

This was an Etsy find last spring. I love smock styles from the 30s–and the idea that the pattern can also work as a dress. So cute!

If you’re curious about collecting vintage patterns, preserving and using them, I wrote a post last year on the topic that is worth checking out.

The idea of a sleeve ease tutorial was so popular in yesterday’s post (thank you all!) that I spent some of my sewing time in the evening putting together a little tutorial. I used the Sense and Sensibility Swing Dress pattern as an example in this post, but this would work for any pattern that has a set-in sleeve and shoulder line that ends at the natural shoulder (in other words, this isn’t for a dropped shoulder or any other sort of style). As you will see, it’s a super easy adjustment to make–and I’m so glad I figured it out this year because no more crying over set-in sleeves that have too much ease and don’t look like the envelope! Hurrah!

Firstly, you’ll need a few supplies: your pattern, tape or pins, a tape measure, pencil, paper scissors, some scratch paper, and a few minutes of time.

Begin by taping or pinning together the front and back shoulder, overlapping the seam allowances. If your shoulder includes fullness, just ignore it–you want to just establish a smooth line around the armhole.

Take your tape measure and measure around the armhole curve. Subtract the front and back underarm seam allowances. Note down this measurement.

Take the sleeve pattern piece and measure from underarm seam, over the cap, to the opposite underarm seam. Subtract both the underarm seam allowances. Note this measurement down.

Now compare both the armhole and cap measurements. Sleeve caps that are set-in should have about 2″ of ease in addition to the armhole measurement (although I like slightly less if I’m using a synthetic or difficult to ease/shrink fabric) at maximum. Any more and you’ll get gathers rather than barely-there ease. The goal is to have some extra fabric to help give the cap a gently curved shape to fit over the shoulder, but the ease should be hidden in the seam allowance and not show up on the cap once sewn. If your cap has more than 2″, note this difference down.

Begin by reshaping the cap with the pencil. I’d suggest tracing the sleeve pattern first if you don’t want to do this on the actual pattern. I freehand this, but you could also use a curved ruler. I always start by taking off excess at the top of the cap and then the sides–the goal is not to take off so much that either the cap is distorted or too tight.

You will want to remeasure the newly drawn cap (don’t cut it out yet!) with the tape measure as you go. Once you get to that armhole + 2″ ease measurement, stop. Look at the sleeve cap and compare it to the original to make sure it hasn’t been distorted. Make sure to transfer all markings (dots, notches, etc.) within the new sleeve cap seam allowance.

Cut along the new cap line and you’re ready to go! I’d recommend doing a muslin if you’re unsure as to your changes. Sometimes a cap is tricky and it takes a couple tries, but this technique really helps eliminate some of those fitting frustrations with sewing sleeves!

As requested, here are the instructions from the 1954 booklet I used to make my circle skirt a couple weeks ago. What I really like about this particular set of instructions, besides the construction details being quite polished and result in a lovely finished piece, is that the waist opening differs from most circle skirts. The cut-out for the waist isn’t a perfect circle–more like an oval, resulting in the skirt hanging from the waist a bit differently (and in my opinion, somewhat more flattering). I hope you all will enjoy this set of instructions and ideas–circle skirts are super easy and great for the beginner sewist to tackle! I could see these being perfect for the upcoming autumn too in a a cozy corduroy or wool flannel… Plus the embellishment possibilities are endless! (Be sure to scroll to the end of this post for a smattering of ideas.) Enjoy!

Below is some inspiration for embellishing circle skirts. In addition to these, I’ve see everything from hand painted motifs like bows and florals, to appliqued felt sea creatures (really!). So as you can see, the sky is the limit!

[ images courtesy My Vintage Vogue ]

[ my Monday, post-housecleaning outfit! ]

Sunday morning I woke up and decided I had to sew a circle skirt. It’d been on my to-sew list for some time, as one of those easy but fun little projects to do. I have several needlecraft booklets from the 50s that have instructions on how to make circle skirts, so all I had to do was pick one and some fabric, and get to it! I think circle skirts are probably one of the easiest styles one can make–besides perhaps the basic gathered skirt. It took me no time at all to whip this up (which is exactly what I was looking for in a spur-of-the-moment weekend project!), until I decided that I wanted to hand hem the entire thing. Bad idea–that took forever! lol.

[ added a couple useful pockets. ]

The fabric I used is a lovely denim-weight cotton print I picked up at Ikea last year (yes, it’s a home decor fabric. No, I don’t mind using home fabrics in apparel applications as long as the weight is appropriate!). I had originally bought it to make a pencil skirt with, but it works a lot better with this style. I also added two patch pockets (because what skirt is really useful without them?!), trimmed with some mini bobble-trim that I had in my stash. I really adore this trim; I had originally bought it to use on a blouse, which I think I may still use the last bit for! The only problem with the final skirt is that I need a petticoat with a bit more body! I got rid of my fullest net petticoat before I moved down here, and layering two of my less-than-full ones underneath just isn’t cutting it. lol.

[ booklet and pretty straw clutch I'm borrowing! ]

I think perhaps this project helped break me out of my sewing funk that I’ve been in. It’s really frustrating to have projects piling up, the siren call of sewing for an upcoming season, and not feel like sewing. As much as I wanted to sew, I think I mentally needed a break from it! Now I just need to get myself in gear and finish up that swimsuit!

[ definitely need a fuller petticoat! ]

Oh, and see that gorgeous little straw envelope clutch in the photos? It’s not actually mine, but something I’ve been loaned to use for a bit! I’m utterly in love with it right now and am stalking Ebay and Etsy for a suitable version to acquire for my own closet. But, that’s part of an exciting little project that a fellow blogger and I have been doing, which I’ll post about tomorrow!!!

Hope you’re having a lovely Tuesday!