Casey's Elegant Musings » tutorial

make your own 50s circle skirt!

casey — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 12:15:47 +0000

As requested, here are the instructions from the 1954 booklet I used to make my circle skirt a couple weeks ago. What I really like about this particular set of instructions, besides the construction details being quite polished and result in a lovely finished piece, is that the waist opening differs from most circle skirts. The cut-out for the waist isn’t a perfect circle–more like an oval, resulting in the skirt hanging from the waist a bit differently (and in my opinion, somewhat more flattering). I hope you all will enjoy this set of instructions and ideas–circle skirts are super easy and great for the beginner sewist to tackle! I could see these being perfect for the upcoming autumn too in a a cozy corduroy or wool flannel… Plus the embellishment possibilities are endless! (Be sure to scroll to the end of this post for a smattering of ideas.) Enjoy!

[ click any of the images for a larger view. ]

Below is some inspiration for embellishing circle skirts. In addition to these, I’ve see everything from hand painted motifs like bows and florals, to appliqued felt sea creatures (really!). So as you can see, the sky is the limit!

[ images courtesy My Vintage Vogue ]

vintage sewing techniques: shoulder pads

casey — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 15:19:35 +0000

[ a simple shoulder pad improves the line of the left shoulder and sleeve drape. ]

Admittedly, shoulder pads still conjure up images of bad 80s linebacker fashion for most people; self included for a long time. But if you spend any length of time sewing vintage patterns, you probably will start to notice that a large number of patterns from the 1930s through 50s include shoulder pads on their list of supplies needed. This is especially so for the 40s, my favorite era, as the silhouette at that time leaned towards broad shoulders enhanced with padding. While some of it got a bit too wide for my 21st century tastes, many styles from earlier decades do benefit from a bit of help in the shoulder structure. A good illustration is the image above: note that the left shoulder seems a bit more crisp and finished with a shoulder pad underneath, while the right sleeve and shoulder fabric hangs oddly. Even a moderate-sized pad can add just that little bit of “umph” a shoulder line needs, while still keeping within our modern tastes. I’m going to show you how to make your own shoulder pads–which means you can customize them completely–based on vintage methods.

The supplies you need are:

cotton or wool quilt batting (I don’t recommend polyester for this)
muslin/plain cotton
paper
paper scissors, ruler, pencil
fabric scissors, needle, thread, pins
sewing machine or serger (opt.)

Begin by drawing a 7″x7″ square on the paper. Mark the straight grainline parallel to one edge. Make a dashed, diagonal line from one corner to another.

Cut out two squares of the fabric, and three of the batting (note: I wrote four on the pattern piece, but tends to give a really full pad; three layers is usually sufficient).

Stack the three batting squares atop each other and cut diagonally from corner to corner (following the dashed line made on the paper pattern. I usually just eye this, but you can mark a line if you’d like.). Pin each wedge together to keep the layers from shifting. Trim down each of the shorter sides 1/4″. Then grade the topmost two layers on each wedge another 1/4″ along the short sides. Repeat another 1/4″ on the top layer’s short sides. This grades the edges of the batting a bit so there is a gentle build up of padding from the neckline to shoulder edge.

[ the batting inserted into the fabric triangle. ]

[ slipstitching the edges together. ]

There are three ways you can finish the shoulder pad. The first is without the aid of a sewing machine or serger. Press all the edges of each fabric square under 1/8″. Fold in half diagonally (mimicking the dashed line on the pattern piece) so the raw edges are inside; lightly press. Place each batting wedge inside the little fabric triangles. Pin together the edges so they conceal the batting. Whipstitch or slipstitch the edges together.

[ pinning the layers before serging. ]

[ the short edges of the wedge have been serged. ]

The second and third methods start the same: Fold one of the fabric squares in half, diagonally from corner to corner (again, mimicking that dashed line on the pattern piece) and lightly press. Place each of the batting wedges inside the fabric triangles. Pin the edges together (if you’re using a serger, remember that your pins need to be away from the edges!). If you’re using a serger, just sew up one side with the raw edge, cut the thread, and then the other raw edge. You can secure the thread tails with a knot and trim.

[ pinned to sew short edges closed with a conventional machine. ]

[ edges have been straight stitched and then gone over with a zig zag. ]

If you don’t have a serger, you can use a regular sewing machine. Straight stitch the raw edges together, pivoting at the point. Switch to a zig zag stitch and stitch so that you catch the edge of the fabric in each stitch. Secure threads.

[ pinning a small dart on the underside of the pad to shape. ]

Usually I find that with a little steam and my tailor’s ham, I can start to get the pad to gently curve to the shape of a shoulder. However, you can also take a small dart on the underside of each pad (taking up the fabric only in the dart–see image), to create a downward curve. It’s easiest to handstitch this, I’ve found.

This is how you make a basic shoulder pad. Additionally, you can cover this with a layer of fabric that matches your dress or lining material, which adds to the finish (and keeps the shoulder pad in good shape).

[ pad pinned to shoulder of my dressform. ]

To attach the pads, pin them in place on your garment at the shoulder and try on to ensure that they create a flattering line (adjust if necessary). The long, folded edge should face the sleeve and the point should face the neckline. Hand stitch at the shoulder seam in the seam allowances. Alternatively, if you want the option to remove the pads, add snaps to the pad and shoulder seam allowances.

This is super easy, and as I mentioned, allows for a lot of customization of the shape and amount of padding. But what if you have a sheer dress, or something with puffed sleeves? Up next I hope to discuss how to create a gathered sleeve head to support the fullness of a sleeve–stay tuned for that!

tracing vintage patterns

casey — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 12:00:58 +0000

If you like to sew with vintage patterns, you know they can be quite fragile in their original state. Or maybe the pattern you have in mind is not quite the right size and you need to grade it up or down and need it in a form that you can cut up. I thought I’d show you the method I use for tracing my vintage patterns. This tutorial shows was done with an unprinted pattern, but I’ve added comments when needed to adjust for those with printing (rather than perforations of unprinted).

You will need a few supplies: paper (you can use inexpensive banner paper from the office supply store, exam table paper, blank newsprint, or Swedish interfacing), ruler and/or yardstick, pencil, fine tip marker, paper scissors, pattern weights (I use large metal washers from the hardware store), pins (for printed patterns only), and a flat surface (in this case, a cutting mat).

Begin by ironing all the pieces on the lowest heat setting for your iron, without steam. If in doubt, test on a piece of paper first to make sure your iron won’t scorch the paper. You need to iron out any wrinkles or deep folds in the pattern pieces so they’ll lie flat. Just be careful not to tear the pieces.

Lay the paper on a flat surface. Arrange the pattern pieces on top with pattern weights atop to help straighten the pattern and keep it flat. If the piece has a straight edge (such as the one pictured with the center-front edge to be placed on folded fabric), you can lay that alongside the straight edge of the paper to reduce one more edge to trace.

Begin tracing around the edges of the pattern with the pencil. I tend to sketch around curves and uneven edges, and make dash marks every 8″-12″ along straight edges that I can fill in with a ruler after the pattern is removed.

Be sure to mark all the circles, notches and diamonds! When transferring a dart marking, I indicate those with small dots and connect them later with a ruler for a complete dart shape. If you’re tracing a printed pattern, I tend to pierce through the pattern and paper beneath with a pin to indicate a pattern marking. After the pattern is removed, I go back and add the mark with the pencil or marker.

Remove the pattern piece and fill in any spots with the ruler/yardstick. I also indicate all darts and grainlines at this point too.

Finally fill in the pattern information: company, number, size, piece and quantity to be cut with marker (if this is a final piece; if you’re using it to grade the pattern, you don’t need all the information). I also like to include notes on seam allowances, darts, hem depth, etc. on the pattern piece. Now you can cut the pattern out and start on the important thing: sewing!

guide to sewing: the tools

casey — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 12:56:03 +0000

(Otherwise titled: It Doesn’t Have to Be Expensive or Complicated)

I admit: I am most definitely not a notions junkie. Although I love the idea of tons of notions and tools to make my sewing easier, both budgetary constraints and storage issues tend to win out! I’m more of the mind that fancy stuff can be acquired over time and you can still produce beautiful projects with just the basics. I often get emails about what sort of tools are necessary for starting to sew, or what sewing machine I own. Surprisingly, I do not have a super-duper new machine; all of my sewing machines (with the exception of my serger) are hand-me-downs. I have a 1950s cabinet model Singer that was my grandmothers, my mom’s late 80/early 90s mechanical Singer (my “primary” machine) and my mother-in-law’s 1990s Kenmore. Since I don’t quilt or do machine embroidery, I find the older machines work just as well for me. Granted, I don’t have things like fancy automatic bobbin winding and my machines may be a bit loud compared to newer models, but they still work!

If you’re just starting to sew and on a budget, I’d highly recommend looking into getting an older machine, rather than a newer “budget friendly” model. Many of those lower end machines will not take as much of a beating as more expensive ones that have higher quality parts. Vintage machines, many of which are still in perfect working order, are usually quite reasonable and were made to last. I’ve seen ones at thrift stores–complete with their cases, attachments, and manuals–for under $40. (Check your city’s Craigslist, flea markets, yard sales, Ebay, or even just put out the call among friends and see if anyone has an old machine sitting in their garage you can have!) You will want to make sure that the machine is in working order (it may just need a tune up; check you local sewing shops for names of service shops that repair sewing machines), that the power cords are still in good condition, and that if it’s missing any attachments or the manual, you can locate those online (Ebay is great for attachments, while Google is fantastic for locating old sewing manuals that have been digitized). Also take into account the functions you will need (or think you will need if this is your first foray into sewing). Check to make sure the machine does the stitches you require (some older ones only do a straight stitch!), but also does it do buttonholes (or have a separate attachment for those)? How fast/slow does it go? Can you do blind hems on it? Will it be able to handle varying weights of fabric?

Aside from a sewing machine, there are a myriad of other tools that are out there for sewing. Some are more necessary than others, and a lot of these are based on personal preference. Here is my list of tools that I can’t live without, followed by an “optional” list:

Sewing Machine Feet Even though your machine probably did come with a set of various feet that you can attach for sewing things other than basic stitches, there are others that you can add (or upgrades to existing ones). My most-often used foot is the invisible zipper foot. But there are a myriad of others from walking feet to a zipper foot for regular zipper insertion. Just be sure to check if the foot your purchasing is compatible with your machine; different machines have varied attachment methods and even “universal” feet don’t always work on every sewing machine.
Iron and Ironing Board I am a pressing fiend; I literally press my projects after every step. It’s really true the advice you’ll read in many books that good pressing throughout the construction of a project can really make it or break it. I have a wide ironing board with a retractable sleeve board. It makes things a bit easier for pressing small or really wide pieces. I also make sure the cover I have for my board is an unbleached muslin (or twill) fabric. Bright or patterned fabric can sometimes bleed onto your project, which you don’t want!

As for irons, it’s one of those personal preference things. Most basic irons have an auto-cut off feature which can be annoying, so keep that in mind when shopping around. Also pay attention to heat settings, steam control (I steam things a lot, so a large resevior and adjustable steam settings are a must). One other thing I am particular about is the weight of my irons. I prefer them to be on the heavy side, as I hate having to press down with my own body weight to put enough pressure on something (although a clapper can take care of this problem; I’ll talk about pressing tools a bit later).
Pressing Cloth Necessary when pressing items that might be scorched, have special surface finishes (like glitter), or to protect your iron’s foot plate from residue (such as when using a fusible interfacing). Skip the expensive store bought ones and just scrounge yourself a piece of cotton muslin or cotton batiste (something lightweight). If you want to get really fancy, you can hem the edges, but pinking works just as well!

Dressmaker Shears I swear by my all-metal Gingher shears. My mom always had a pair of super sharp metal scissors for fabric cutting, and I knew the value of them from an early age. While metal shears are a bit pricey, they are worth the investment as they’ll last for years. I even dropped mine on a concrete floor one time and although one blade got nicked, I was able to have them sharpened and the imperfection buffed out. I waited until cutting tools were on sale to buy mine, which meant they were a little more affordable. I cannot cut fabric without my dressmaking shears–they slide through any fabric like butter! Worth. Every. Penny. Just be sure to reserve them only for fabric so they stay sharp.
Pinking Shears Great for finishing seams or creating a decorative edge. Make sure you only use yours for fabric; these get really dull when they’re used on paper (so have a separate pair for paper crafting!). My favorite that I’ve used recently are just the run of the mill Fiskars pinking shears.
Paper Scissors For cutting things like pattern paper and interfacing. I have a pair of inexpensive paper scissors that I keep near my sewing area. I replace them every few years since they do get dull from chopping away at paper and things after awhile!
Thread Snippers Not completely necessary, but I consider them a must-have because keeping your bigger scissors nearby while you’re sewing to snip threads is a big pain (and too many times I’ve knocked them off the table, nearly stabbing my foot!).
Pins and Pincushion Necessary when cutting out fabric, pinning pieces together during construction and testing hem length. There are a variety of pins on the market, some of which are suited to sewing specific fabrics, while others are more “universal”. Pins are like many tools in sewing: you try a few different kinds until you find the ones you love. My favorite are the longer pins with large, colored heads (great for when you’ve dropped one on the floor!). You’ll also need a pincushion of some sort; whether the old-fashioned tomato, something handmade, or a magnetic one (my pincushion of choice), make sure you have some place to safely store all your pins!
Rulers I can’t work without my 18” ruler and yardstick! Especially when I’m altering patterns or drafting them. I just buy wood yardsticks at the hardware store as they’re cheaper than most fabric stores. I have two different 18″ rulers: one is metal and the other is a 2″ wide gridded plastic one (found in the quilting section at JoAnns). The latter I tend to use more often for drafting and altering patterns.

Seam Gauge A mini ruler with a sliding marker that you can use to “keep your place” anywhere along the edge. These are usually about 6” long and indispensable for checking seam allowances and hemming.
Seam Ripper You will make mistakes. I do, and so do the most experienced seamstresses, so invest in this little item to make your sewing experience easier. I prefer the small ones, rather than the larger, “ergonomic” ones. I find the larger ones have thicker blades which make it hard to pick small stitches out. (In a pinch, I have been known to use my thread snippers too!)
Hand Sewing Needles Even if you’re mostly a machine sewer, you probably will have an instance occasionally for needing to sew by hand. I keep a variety of sharps on hand at all times and a variety pack of embroidery needles. I also keep some blunt embroidery/tapestry needles on hand for things like turning loops and such.
Marking Tools Having a variety of marking tools on hand for indicating darts and other pattern markings is a must! I keep marking pencils, pens, chalk paper (I prefer not to use wax paper since the wax can bleed and not always wash out) and chalk squares (my favorite) at all times. At the very least, make sure you have marking chalk and marking pencils on hand. Generally these come in white, yellow and blue to allow for marking on various colors of fabric.
Cutting Board Do not, I repeat: do not try and pin/cut out projects on your dining room table. You will nick the surface (trust me, I know!). Conversely, unless you freshly washed your kitchen floor, don’t lay out your fabric for cutting on that surface either; bits of dirt and stains invisible to your eye may latch themselves onto your beautiful material and show up only after you sewed the garment up and set the stains by pressing. Save yourself some hassle and invest in a simple cardboard cutting board. I replace mine every couple years as I use it not only for cutting patterns, but drafting that consequently leads to writing notes all over it (I jot things down as I go so I won’t forget!). Some prefer the more rigid (but not suited to mad note-taking) plastic cutting boards traditionally used for quilting and rotary cutting. The latter tends to be a bit more pricey.
Blunt Instrument Okay, I know that sounds like something out of a horror movie, but let me explain! If you sew collars, belts, or anything else that may have a point that needs to be precisely turned outward after sewing, a blunt but pointed tool is essential. I usually just grab one of my larger knitting needles for this job (so if you knit already, you’re in luck!), but I would imagine that sewing stores do have some notion specifically for this…
Tracing Paper While this may not seem like a necessary item, if you do any amount of sewing you know that it’s handy to have some sort of paper to trace altered pieces, or even additions to a pattern you make (like a new pocket, neckline facing, etc.). Some use the large pads of tracing paper found art stores, typing paper, or rolls of blank newsprint or banner paper (found at office supply stores). Whatever you use, it’s just helpful to have within arm’s reach!
Storage Container(s) Probably the most necessary of all your sewing tools: you need a place to stow all this stuff! Be it a cardboard box you nabbed from a friend, a plastic bin, or even an old dresser dedicated solely to your sewing things, keeping all your notions and tools in some semblance of order and availability is crucial. I tend to have things in a few different storage spots (all within the same room) using a mish-mash of Ikea wood desktop drawers, plastic boxes, and cardboard containers left over from moving. The real key is keeping the things you use most (seam ripper, sewing needles, scissors) close to your sewing area, and the fabric and patterns can be stashed in a less accessible spot.

The following is the list of items that aren’t completely necessary, but still fall into the basics and things-that-make-your-life-easier categories. If you start sewing without these, the sewing gods won’t curse you, but they are worth considering investing in over time!

Pressing Tools A good clapper, point presser and ham are fantastic and really help when sewing garments. A clapper is a large, wood piece that you “clap” down on a seam or element that needs to be flattened after steaming it (it traps the heat in and the weight helps the pressing). I use this a lot when working with bulky material or on things that need to be really crisp and tailored. My point presser and clapper are one in the same; the top of the clapper just has a small extension that has a sharp point on one end. I can put corners that need to be pressed (but not flattened) over this point and press them.

A pressing ham is fantastic for pressing sleeve heads, curvy necklines and princess seams (just to name a few things), as it’s rounded shape helps to mold the fabric as you press it. They tend to be pricey, but I know I have heard of people making their own, so you might want to check into that if you’re on a budget!

Another pressing tool that is nice, but isn’t necessary is a small, round roll. It’s long, but about the diameter of a wrist, so it’s great for pressing cuffs and other small pieces that are similarly shaped.
Tube Turner I finally bought myself one last year and have been loving this little device! It’s basically a simple piece of heavy wire with a finger loop at one end and a latch at the opposite, but for turning narrow tubes of fabric or spaghetti straps, it’s proved invaluable!
Serger As a recent convert to the serger (remember, I had been sewing for quite a while before I got one, so you don’t need one!), I have to admit I really love this little device. Besides being great for constructing knits, it’s a whiz at finishing seams (which used to be my arch-nemesis in sewing). Although I plan on doing a more in-depth post on my serger in the future, suffice to say that I did not buy the most expensive (or even sort-of expensive) model out there, but if you find you need one, it’s worth saving up for!
Dress Form If you find that you frequently sew garments, I highly recommend eventually looking into buying a dress form. Although I sewed for quite some time without one, things became a bit easier once I had something to put my half-finished garments on and use as a fitting assistant! A dress form can’t replace fitting on your actual body, but for small tweaks and such they’re invaluable. Again, this is something that you can find vintage models for less than a new one, or you can opt for an adjustable form (I have a Dritz adjustable form purchased at JoAnns) or a non-adjustable form (most often the kind we see professional dressmakers/designers use). They can be pricey, so be sure to shop around! If you’re more of the DIY mind, then you can even make your own!
Pattern Weights I hesitated to not include these in the “essentials” list, because I use mine a lot. But to get started, you really don’t need them. Pattern weights as sold in sewing stores can be pricey, but there are some budget-friendly options. You could use soup cans, make your own, or use large metal washers from the hardware store (what I use). These are great if you’re laying out a pattern and a myriad of other sewing uses!
Rotary Cutter and Mat I still do not have either a rotary cutter or self-healing cutting mat, but fellow sewing friends swear by these! Another investment to be made if you feel that it would be useful for your sewing tool arsenal. I know some sewists have mastered the rotary cutter enough to use on curves, but this tool is most helpful for straight-edged cuts.
Hem Marker This is super helpful if you don’t have someone to assist in marking hem lengths on skirts and dresses. I bought one a few years ago at a rummage sale, and it’s been the best $5 I ever spent! The principle is simple: a freestanding pole holds a chalk dispenser that puffs out chalk dust onto the garment in a small line when you squeeze an attached air-bulb, and most can mark hems from a couple to over 20 inches from the ground. I use mine all the time!

I am sure I have inadvertently left some tools off this list, and of course there are the sewing gadgets I don’t have or use that others may love! So if you sew, what is your favorite sewing tool? Up next: print and web resources to get you started!

Click here for part one of this series: guide to sewing: my background.

guide to sewing: my background

casey — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:49:40 +0000

I’m so excited to finally being posting this series; it’s something I’ve been knocking around in my head for awhile and resulted in writing countless draft versions, but never being quite sure how I wanted to organize it! I get at least a couple emails every week asking for advice or help with sewing. So many gals are curious about learning to sew, what my background on sewing is, and how to get started; I knew this was the perfect topic to blog about! Every week for the next three weeks, I’ll be posting an installment of this series. I’ll be going over resources, tools, favorite books, inspiration and my sewing background. Whether you’re itching to start sewing for the first time or someone more experienced and just enjoy reading anything about sewing (that would be me!), I hope you enjoy these posts…

[ some past projects (l to r): costume based on J.W. Waterhouse's painting of "Ophelia", black voile summer dress, 1830s style day gown. ]

Sewing Memories, Philosophy & Inspiration

I’ve been sewing (or wanting to sew!) for as long as I can remember; as a child I used to raid Mom’s scrap bag to sew garments for my Barbies (all of a very Victorian nature; I continually check a book from the library on drafting Victorian style clothes for dolls…). She used to sew quite a bit herself, and made many cute outfits for my sister and I! It wasn’t until I was older, around 10, that she allowed me to use her sewing machine and showed me the basics using a little book on sewing for kids. I made a few, small projects, and then moved onto clothes–my real interest in the sewing world.

[ drafting a skirt sloper back in 2006. ]

I also dabbled a lot with pattern drafting, even as a child. We would make weekly trips to the public library, and I would raid their sewing books, many of which were books from the 1970s hippie, diy movement. They had such a carefree, you-can-make-this! attitude that engaged my young imagination and I started figuring out how to draft patterns from my dolls and myself. I continued just dabbling in sewing and drafting until I was a teenager. Around that time I stumbled on Jennie Chancey’s Sense and Sensibilty pattern line, and was enchanted that there were other women interested in old-fashioned styles and actually making and wearing them. I became quite active on the forums and made friends with many of the historic costumers (including my dear friend Jenny Rose). I learned a lot from these ladies, and started doing my own costumes and learning the value of researching your projects.

During my last “semester” of high school (I was schooled at home, so we didn’t really follow the normal school year or grade system), I had the opportunity to intern with Jennie Chancey for a month. I went to stay with her, and helped around the house and with the children in exchange for her teaching me some of the tricks of the trade. I learned quite a bit about drafting, sewing and designing clothes from Jennie; we spent many, many hours talking about fashion and the resurgence of the retro look (this was in 2003, right around the time the “vintage” resurgence were starting to make a big splash on the runways again). Jennie shared with me many of her antique and vintage sewing books, as well as her incredible vintage pattern collection! (I credit her with really starting the “pattern collector” bug in me!) She was one of the first people outside of my family to encourage me to start a sewing business. A dream that I have kept close to my heart over the years (and am working towards finally making a reality)!

[ my sewing space, March 2007. ]

Since then, I have continued to work on my skills, take a few classes at a local sewing store (mostly on seam finishes and inserting zippers!), and read a lot. I’ve read books on everything from overviews of fashion history, to sewing manuals (yes, I have read The Vogue Book of Sewing cover to cover; no joke), to dry textbooks on drafting and pattern manipulation. In that respect, I am very much self taught and my sewing skills have developed in a very organic manner over time. The books I remember reading on sewing during my childhood really encouraged the idea of “just doing it” if you had a true passion for the craft. In my eyes, there is no right or wrong way, and every project has the potential to teach you something!

My sewing has varied over the years. I started out making clothes for myself, veered off into historic costumes for most of my teen years, and then back to the various facets of sewing “every day” clothes for myself. I have definitely taken a turn back towards the costume side of things with my interest in vintage patterns and styles of the 1930s through 1950s. For me, sewing offers not only a pleasant hobby, the ability to get the style and fit I want, but also allows me to cater to my more theatrical sensibilities in dress. Looking back on my experiences at sewing, I often wonder where it will take me next!

[ a page from my inspiration notebook, March 2008. ]

I believe encouraging everyone who expresses an interest in sewing to jump in with both feet; total immersion learning if you will! Even if you take a sewing class, make sure you branch out as you feel ready. Want to try making something more complicated than a pillow case or tote bag at first? Surround yourself with lots of resources (and maybe a helping hand!) and just go! Sewing is not brain surgery and I firmly believe should not be treated as such. Although I have a deep respect for the tradition of sewing and time-honored techniques, nothing delights me more than to see a curious person strike out on their own to try an idea or technique that excites them. There is no one way to learn how to sew, and even many sewing techniques have multiple ways of achieving the same end, so finding a way that makes the best sense to you is easy.

[ technical sketches and a draft-in-progress; july 2008. ]

Keeping my inspiration banks filled is a huge part of my sewing as well; even though most of the time it’s a rather passive activity that involves books or my computer. Being inspired by past eras, fashion designers, and photos helps give me new ideas and new techniques to try! I keep a notebook handy, and give myself downtime in the evenings if I want to just browse my massive “inspiration” folder on my computer. You never know where your next sewing idea will come from! One of my favorite sources is inspiration from other bloggers; the rich and varied things that come through Google Reader never fail to make me sit up and look at something in a new light!

If you sew, how did you start out? What are your favorite sources of inspiration for sewing projects? I’ll share some of mine in the later installments… Next week: my list of recommended sewing tools.