Tilly posted last month about storing vintage patterns, and as I had been mulling over a post on this topic lately, I thought it was high time to delve a bit into this myself! I have gotten a number of questions over the years regarding how I store both my new and vintage patterns, so hopefully this post will be useful to a few readers.
Let me preface this by saying that no one method is entirely perfect or right. Just because I tend to take a more “Preservationist” viewpoint (as Tilly aptly called it), doesn’t mean that everyone must, or I somehow am looking down my nose at those that don’t follow that method (I detest Vintage Sewing Snobbery!). So if you find an aspect helpful in this post, then I couldn’t be more pleased! But if it just doesn’t work for you in any way, then I’d love to hear about your personal method of storage.
Let’s start chatting a bit about my beloved vintage pattern collection, shall we? It grew quite a bit recently thanks to my grandmother’s patterns joining the stash. Which means that once again I’m running out of storage space. But this is what method I used up until the New Year… All my patterns are stored in sturdy, cardboard banker’s boxes. For several years I used plastic boxes I picked up at Target, but the collection outgrew those quickly, and Target was no longer selling a similar size. So back to banker’s boxes it was! These are great though, because I can line up the smaller (Simplicity, Butterick) patterns side-by-side, and double stack them as demonstrated above.
The patterns themselves are currently divided up by category. Dresses, suits and outerwear, sportswear (bathing suits, shorts, etc.), children’s patterns, etc. When my collection was smaller, I had things divided up as early vintage (1920s-1940s) and later vintage (1950s-1970s), and then subdivided by style. But this became a bit of a storage nightmare, as I don’t have that much room for that many boxes.
Within the boxes there are patterns loose without plastic slips, a few in large sandwich bags, and some in archival envelopes (which I bought from Ebay so long ago I don’t have any specific link to share!). Generally the ones in the archival envelopes are older, more fragile patterns. At the moment not everything is bagged, and honestly, I’m not too worried about it. Unless I start noticing something is disintegrating or there are bugs eating away at the paper (silverfish are my enemies), it’s not too much of a bother. The only real advantage to having everything bagged is that I can take the pieces and instructions out of the envelope, which means I’m not in danger of ripping the envelope when I try to repackage the pieces!
I do trace many of my vintage patterns, most often because they’re either too fragile to handle (especially in the case of my 30s patterns), or I need to make fitting changes and having a tracing to work with means I don’t wreck the original lines of the pattern. But again, this often depends on the pattern. For some later vintage patterns that I know will fit or are really simple lines, I don’t bother! But once I have a tracing, I do keep it in a separate box with all my other self-drafted and fitted tracings. Storing them with my vintage patterns got too cumbersome, although I do keep a slip of paper in many of the patterns noting I do have a tracing. (Otherwise I’ll retrace it!).
But what about modern patterns? It’s a fairly similar approach–sans archival envelopes. Patterns are generally kept in boxes, but organized by pattern company. This is because many of the patterns I own that are modern are indie companies, and I like to be able to access those easily. Cut patterns are often placed in a large sandwich bag, along with any tracings I did to alter the pattern. It’s a fairly easy method, but keeps things organized enough for me to easily find what I’m looking for.
What else do I do? I’ve used a pattern organizing software in the past (full disclosure: the software was provided to me to test drive) and also scanned pattern envelopes to add to my own image files. The latter tends to work best for vintage patterns, and allows me to virtually go through my collection without having to pull all my boxes out! But it is time consuming, which is why I am still working on cataloging everything.
So that is how I store all my patterns, for the curious! I know it may sound very organized to some, but I am such a scatterbrain otherwise, it would result in Pattern Chaos (which would make me unhappy!). When I got married and moved I had no order to my pattern storage, and remember finding vintage patterns I had forgotten I had! Now that doesn’t happen very often, which means I can utilize the patterns better than I did before. Which means better sewing productivity for me! Hooray!
February 20, 2012 ·
37 lovely thoughts
posted in tutorials
· tags: sewing, sewing workshop, tutorial
Despite my best attempts to resist it, I have fallen down the quilting rabbit hole. Only temporarily though–and I’m not sure my somewhat feeble, amaturish attempt can be called quilting. But the quilt we have draped over the sofa in our living room is far past the point of needing to be repaired (it’s threadbare and has bits hanging off it–I hide it when we have company over). It was a special quilt because it’s the one I had as a child, but it’s just too old. I spent the last few months we were in Florida scouring the thrift shops for pretty, vintage pillowcases to use in a quilt top. But then of course, we moved and I got distracted by other things!
Until one evening in the past month when in a fit of insomnia, I pulled the stack of pillowcases out and promptly cut out a series of 12″x12″ squares and whipped them together to form a quilt top! (Pictured above.) But now, I’m stuck. I’ve Googled and looked at books, and I’m afraid I’m just getting more and more confused about quilting. All I want is a simple quilt–no fancy stuff–with a wide border, a colorful binding and calico back. Machine quilting too (I’m not going to have the patience for hand quilting, as much as I like the look). So I thought I’d ask my knowledgable readers: if you quilt, what are your favorite, not-intimidating quilting how-to’s? As I said, I’m just looking to make something simple–and I don’t think I’m going to become a die-hard quilter (garment sewing really is my true love). So just the basics, I guess–but in plain English!
So any help would be appreciated. The sooner I can wrap this project up, the better our living room will look without the ragged quilt that is gracing it at the moment (though I’m eying the bits that are still intact for repurposing into something else… What, I don’t know yet!).
February 17, 2012 ·
72 lovely thoughts
posted in sewing
· tags: 2012 sewing, quilt, sewing
Several readers have sweetly asked if I know whether my grandmother made up any of these patterns. Sadly, I do not–I don’t have a lot of photos of her, so I can’t dig through the family album and see if she sported any of these in family snapshots! (Though I may have to see if I can find some family photos at some point…) I suspect she did make a few of these; some have fairly obvious pin holes and notations on the pattern instructions.
I’m nearing the end of the pile with this post–I suspect there will only be one more next week. But I hope you enjoy looking through these gems as much as I did preparing this post!
Vogue 1476 – I
adore this dress and jacket ensemble! I really love how unique the empire waist dress is when paired with a jacket that nips in at the waist. This pattern was most likely published in the mid 1960s, and definitely shows that elegant suit look that was so popular during the decade. The pattern calls for heavier, luxurious fabrics like “brocade, damask, taffeta, matelesse”, etc. But I think it would be just as appropriate in a crisp seersucker for a more casual, summertime suit-dress!
McCall 1745 – Another accessories pattern! This style is very indicative of the early to mid 50s: close fitting hat and small, boxy handbag. I just love the brimmed hat–it would look lovely in a low-pile velveteen (the pattern suggests stiff fabrics like felt). Or maybe in a more casual canvas for summer! I’d really like to make this one later in the year…
Vogue 6948 – Another simple, but stylish blouse pattern. I really love classic styles like this–and the back button detail seals the deal for me (though, admittedly it’s a bit annoying to try to fasten by oneself!). I am itching to make this in a lightweight linen or crisp cotton shirting for summertime…
Vogue 8145 – This is a pattern that can be three garments: a coat, robe or dress. Quite a few! I’d love this in a pretty cotton print for a summertime robe, or in a drapey material for the coat dress option. (A style that always intrigues me in theory, but rarely is terribly flattering, since one has to cinch so much material with a belt!) Isn’t the little Peter Pan collar and turned up cuffs so sweet?
Vogue 9508 – This is one of my
favorites, hands down! The ever-popular playsuit (at least having made a revival the past several summers) is always a fun option for the summertime. I really love the plaid illustrated on the envelope–so fun! The waistline of the playsuit actually has an optional drawstring, but if I were to make this, I’d probably opt to add it for much-needed waist definition. The skirt is a separate garment, so you can throw it over the playsuit when you need to dress up a bit more after a day at the beach!
McCalls 2186 – Last, but not least, is this darling children’s pattern. I’ve been amassing quite a tidy little collection of vintage children’s patterns (no, I am not pregnant!) for the future–or to make up for friend’s children. This one jumped out at me because of the cute dress and jacket (a trapeze style–my favorite even in miniature!). The pattern also includes the bonnet. So cute!
This post is part of an ongoing series cataloging a collection of my grandmother’s patterns. To view previous posts, please click here.
February 1, 2012 ·
22 lovely thoughts
posted in vintage inspiration
· tags: 1950s, 1960s, nana's sewing patterns, sewing, vintage inspiration
Remember that 50s Simplicity pattern I posted recently? Well, curiosity got the better of me, and I just had to try it. Don’t mind the fact that it’s really too chilly for a short sleeve top (that’s what sweaters are for, anyway)–the simpliness of the top appealed to me. Would it look a flattering as the envelope illustration?
The pattern piece is just a large rectangle. For a size small you only need 5/8 yard of material, for a medium-large 3/4. The pattern calls for a jersey material, so I opted for a beautiful pink, wool-blend jersey I picked up on a recent fabric shopping trip. I love the drape, although 100% wool jersey is still far superior–though a bit too expensive for my pocket book at the moment!
The only seams on the top make up a T shape along the back. The two short ends of the rectangle are sewn together to about halfway to allow for the waist-split, and the one of the long edges is sewn together, leaving an opening at either fold for the arms to pass through. Super easy! The edges are turned under and hemmed with catchstitches and a hook and eye sewn at the waist. I serged all the raw edges just to keep things neat as well. The top took me less than an evening to complete from start to finish.
Putting the top on and arranging all the fullness that falls around the neckline is a bit tricky, which is why this top won’t go on my list of “favorite blouses I wear all the time”. Because it is a bit fiddly to wear. I could tack down the folds permanently with stitches, but too be honest, I’m on to other projects right now and just don’t feel like dealing with it. lol. It’s a sweet top, but will probably be relegated to occasions that I’m not engaged in a lot of movement (on most days I sprawl and flail about a lot)–so things like dinner out.
Also wearing: thrifted skirt and brooch | MAC Viva Glam I lipstick
On a humorous note, I only realized after taking these photos that I resemble a giant pink Valentine! It’s still a little too early for that… lol. (More photos here.)
Pattern: Simplicity #4538 (1950s vintage). I made the original size to fit a 30″ to 32″ bust.
Fabric: Wool jersey blend.
Alterations: None.
Techniques: Catchstitching and serging the edges (if that can be called a “technique”).
Make Again? Perhaps. Although I’d be curious to see this in a tshirt jersey, I’m not rushing out to make it right away. Maybe later in the year!
January 30, 2012 ·
95 lovely thoughts
posted in sewing
· tags: 2012 sewing, sewing, simplicity, vintage sewing
So this is my last 2011 sewing project! I usually prefer to model finished projects, but this week got super crazy and the time I had set aside for photography ended up tending to a mess Mr. Freckles made (augh!!!), so the dressform had to do! (More about this dressform below–I’m really excited about this!) So now that I’ve made this rather long-winded explanation, on to the skirt!
RIght before we took off to visit family for Christmas, I crazily decided to whip up a skirt for myself. I used some gorgeous wool fabric I won on a blog giveaway last year and a half circle skirt pattern as my base. It’s one of those projects that goes together in an afternoon (well, not counting the time you need to let the bias stretch–vitally important!)–with just one seam it’s super easy! Even despite using a invisible zipper–usually the bane of my existence. I’ve been wearing it at least once a week since I finished it! Plus it’s got a super-cute, surprise lining: bubblegum pink satin!
Pattern: Loosely based on Chie’s half circle skirt pattern (just lengthened), but you could also easily draft your own. Note: the lining is cut from the exact pattern, just 1″ shorter at the hem.
Fabric: Lightweight 100% wool for the outer shell, and pink satin for the lining.
Alterations: Since I was using Chie’s pattern, I opted to leave off the scalloped waistband and just drafted a straight one. I also lengthened the skirt to hit at mid-calf (more of a late 40s/50s length) rather than knee.
Techniques: Double interfaced the waistband for more stability, used a machine rolled hem for both the wool and lining.
Make Again? Yes!!! I need more of these in my closet…
I need your help! This lovely dressform (I’m still pinching myself she’s mine!) was a very generous gift from my inlaws for Christmas. I’ve been wanting to upgrade from my Dritz adjustable form for awhile to a professional style form. While the adjustable served me well for many years, I wanted something I could easily drape on and pin into. Enter the PGM dressform. Plus she has collapsable shoulders, which makes getting garments on and off a breeze! I noticed many seamstresses name their dressforms, and figured now that I have a fancy one, it would be cute to give her a name. Any suggestions? I’d love to hear what name ideas you have! (I’ll be taking suggestions for a bit and then I’ll announce my favorite sometime next week… )
January 13, 2012 ·
94 lovely thoughts
posted in sewing
· tags: 2011 sewing, sewing
