Once upon a time, I started a series of interviews of creative individuals and bloggers I have had the pleasure to “meet” through the internet. Somehow, this little feature–that I so enjoy doing–got pushed by the wayside and forgotten. But I am delighted that I am “resurrecting” this occasional series with an interview with one of my longtime “internet sewing friends” and amazingly talented seamtresses: Anna Allen. If you read her blog, wildflowers::pretty, then you are probably familiar with her lovely photos capturing her own corner of the world, sewing projects and beautiful aesthetic sense. I have known Anna for years (I think we must have “met” on a sewing board when we were both teenagers!), and she has truly inspired me with her expertise in historic fashion (the 1860s are her particular forte) and her recent branching-out into modern fashion with her new line. Anna generously offered quite a bit of helpful advice and insight into her creative process in this interview, and I hope you’ll enjoy reading it as much as I did!

Give us a little introduction about yourself, for readers that may not be familiar with you and your work. How old are you, what’s your background, where did you grow up, etc.?

Hello! I’m so happy to be here and thank you for allowing me to share a bit about myself, although I can’t say it is all that interesting! I am twenty-six years old, I have five brothers, one sister and I have lived in Iowa my entire life. My mom taught me school at home through all the grades, which was a blast (most of the time)! Other than my humongous family and being schooled at home, I’m a pretty average girl. I always said I was happy I was home schooled so that kids wouldn’t make fun of me everyday for wanting to spend all of my free time sewing and cooking (believe it or not, some kids still managed to make fun of me for that). I feel like I was able to spend a lot of time making things with my hands and my family always encouraged that. We are all pretty creative sorts, my siblings and I, thanks to Mom and Dad!

Anna showing off a lovely bag she made earlier this year.

How long have you been sewing? Are you mostly self taught? I know you mentioned you were teaching yourself to draft patterns prior to starting your namesake line–that’s really impressive!

I have been sewing since I was about three years old, give or take. I can’t really remember a time when I didn’t have a needle and thread in my hand. My mom taught me the basics and continued to teach me to perfect my skills. I remember once I made myself a gathered skirt and I sewed the gathers into the waistband so they ended up slanting to one side. I was going to keep it that way, but my mom made me rip it out. I was so mad! But in the end, I was grateful that she made me use the seam ripper. It taught me to be more careful when I sew and not to cut corners. I never thought I was much of a perfectionist until I learned to sew.

I have since learned to teach myself new skills and I have spent countless hours on the internet studying diagrams and spending hours on forums asking questions to other knowledgeable sewers. One of the skills I’m most proud of is learning how to draft patterns, though I will admit it’s still something I need to perfect. I much prefer draping, because you don’t need to be so exact and mathematical! I am no math whiz! But it’s good to have at least a basic knowledge of drafting. I also learned to grade patterns (thanks to Jennie Chancey’s amazing online tutorial!), which I’ve found to be a lot easier than I thought. It’s one of those things I put off learning for years, but it’s great to have, especially if you sew your own clothing. There’s always that pattern out there that you really love, but isn’t your size.

We’ve known each other for a number of years, and you’ve made a great name for yourself in the Civil War reenactment community as a talented and knowledgeable seamstress. What influenced you to branch out into modern clothes as well?

It’s something I have thought about for a long time. I don’t remember what convinced me to start designing and making my own clothing; I think it was just the idea of doing something different than the same-old. I love historical clothing, don’t get me wrong, but I found myself longing to design modern clothing while I was sewing my historical garments. And then I would spend hours on blogs seeing everyones lovely creations. I wanted in on some of the fun! I think this is my way of having more of a creative outlet, since making historical clothing means you have limitations. I’m a freak when it comes to authenticity and so there isn’t much creative license when I make a reproduction. When I create my own garments, I can pretty much do whatever I want! For instance, it’s so weird now that I make garments with machine sewn button holes. When I sew a historical garment, every button hole has to be hand sewn, which takes quite a bit longer. I still try to stay away from zippers, but it is freeing knowing that if I wanted to add a zipper, I could.

Trimming an 1860s bonnet.

When I look at your clothes, I see your aesthetic that has been shaped by your love of previous eras, as well as your appreciation for simplicity. What are some of the influences that shape your designs? Any particular artist/designer, period in time, musicians, etc.?

There are so many things around me that inspire. So many designers, past and present! I am not very good at remembering names of designers or artists. I think my biggest inspiration are the simple people from other eras. The idea that people stitched their own clothing and wore them until they were shreds and then patched them up and wore them longer amazes me to no end. I want to wear my clothing so long that they need to be mended and patched. When I create my garments, I think that simple is better. At times I stray and I try to design a garment that would be fun and wild, but in the end I think it just does not “go.” And then I go back to creating a simple shirt without darts or a basic smock. I desire to create clothing that will last a long time, not just one season.

Take us quickly through your typical day. How do you keep yourself focused and motivated? What helps you get through the day (for me, it’s multiple cups of tea and a detailed list!)?

I go through so many different daily schedules. Man, it’s annoying. I am a bit of a procrastinator, so it is hard for me to get to work sometimes. I do try to get up fairly early, though. In the past I used to sleep in until 9 or 9:30 every morning, but now I wake up at 6 or 6:30 (hello coffee time!) and get to work around 8. It makes me feel much more productive and I feel like I can actually take time to do other things after work and on weekends. I use Google Calendar A LOT! I wrote myself a schedule and it is emailed to me every morning so that I can see what I’m supposed to be doing and when I’m supposed to do it. Sometimes that doesn’t help, so just lately I am trying a little experiment to make myself work when I’m supposed to. If I work a full day without getting distracted by the internet, I am allowed to put in $5 every day into a “clothing fund.” If I work over-time, I am allowed to put in $5 for every extra hour I work. It’s good to reward yourself for hard work when you can, especially if you are like me and have a big problem wasting my day away on the internet!

The dress that started her new line of modern clothes.

Where do you hope to take your Anna Allen line in the future? What is your dream?

For now I would like to just continue letting it grow, perhaps one day I will add others on to help out. Or even have my own little shop where people can come in and try on the clothing. But I am pretty happy working myself and it’s fun to mail things off to people all around the world. So I guess you might say I am living my dream! Honestly, I really am just happy sewing clothing and making enough to live on. That has always been my dream.

Any advice for others looking to chase their dream of a handmade business? What do you wish you knew back when you started Graceful Lady and now with Anna Allen Clothing?

I was fortunate to not really have to make a living off of my business right off, since my parents allowed me to continue living at home after I graduated. It really helped to have their support, not just living support! I do wish I knew more about the business aspect when I first started. You know, like that dreaded thing called taxes! But that is something you can learn as you go, so don’t feel too frustrated the first year. Even though I have a tax accountant to do my actual taxes, there’s still a lot you need to do yourself, like book keeping! Definitely save ALL receipts! Don’t throw anything away.

Also, it helps to have a solid plan and goals to work towards. I wish I would have had more of a solid plan when I first started. It’s easy to slack off when you’re your own boss, so you need to make commitments and stick with them. This is why I think it’s good to reward yourself for your hard work. Otherwise you get burnt out and it feels like all of your money is going back into the business and you don’t see any of it!

I hear about a lot of people wanting to quit their job and think of a way to make money on their own. That might work for some, but it’s much better if you can start out doing something you know you are good at and LOVE. Any job you do will become tedious and not so much fun and it’s even worse if you don’t have confidence in what you are doing. So don’t look at it as an easy way out. Nothing is easy! But I definitely wouldn’t want to discourage anyone from starting their own business if it is something they have longed to do and are willing to spend hours upon hours working at it. In the long run, I think I can safely say it’s totally worth it.

Anna is also a talented knitter!

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!

I’ve followed Jen’s sweet blog, Pretty Little Pictures for quite some time. She and I have similar interests: styling feminine outfits and sewing, which she does both of with a lot of talent! I was super excited when she announced that she was opening an Etsy shop, Jennifer Lauren, offering an array of the fetching skirts and dresses she makes. Always eager to pick another creative sort’s brain, Jen kindly agreed to an interview on the topic of her sewing and starting a business. I hope you enjoy!

How long have you been sewing and what is your earliest sewing memory?

My mum was very big on crafting when I was little. I remember my sister and I both having things my mum made, from containers for our hair clips to little bags to store our treasures. She was also very much into knitting, stained glass and baking – just being creative in general.

The first thing I ever sewed was a little bag when I was around 12. I saw the design for it in a shop but it was far to expensive for me to buy, so I got out my mum’s sewing machine and proceeded to just make it up as I went, and that’s how I tend to do things now.

I find doing things the way I’m told to is not always the fastest or the best way for me to work – I also get bored easily and tend not to finish things if it’s too complicated. I also find it fascinating how things come together, and can usually see how they fit once I’ve cut out a pattern and so tend to forgo looking at the instructions. I have however, just started using vintage patterns, and I do tend to look at the sewing instructions a bit more because most of the patterns have no labels on them which makes it slightly more difficult than a modern day pattern.

I have never had any real formal training except that in high school, when I was about 15 I took textiles for a year. I learnt all about reading patterns and understanding what went into making a good pattern. I also learnt to make felt and I made my very first pair of pants (I think they were a disaster though, and I’d never wear them). Then after that I went away for a year and didn’t really get back into sewing until I went to University when I was 18.

What inspired you to start Jennifer Lauren?

The main thing that inspired me to start an Etsy shop really was the vintage blogging world. I couldn’t believe that I had stumbled across this gold mine of inspiration. Your blog was one of the first I found and I instantly knew I wanted to start a blog too. It’s just over a year old now, and looking back I can certainly see the effect that bloggers like you have had on my style. I was searching for a style that was me because I had grown out of my university days of jeans and a t-shirt and was craving inspiration but had no idea of the direction I wanted to go.

I got up the courage to start my own blog but didn’t tell any one, even my partner. I would sneak off to do photo shoots until I was caught one day. He didn’t bat an eyelid, just asked me if I wanted him to take my pictures, and so my blog was born.

I spent hours finding new, wonderful blogs and then David showed me Etsy. I started to read about bloggers who were Etsy-ing full time and I decided that that was what I wanted to do too. It took me about a year to figure out what I wanted to make and sell and then another 6months of planning and preparation, but I got there in the end.

You have a great eye for beautiful designs–what inspires the dresses and skirt designs in your shop?

Thanks Casey, you’re always so lovely – I think the first time I commented on your blog and you emailed me back was one of the most exciting times of my blogging career – I had little butterfly’s in my stomach and a smile on my face for the rest of the day!!

I’m still coming into my own style – I don’t think I’ve quite perfected it yet but it’s getting there. One thing I always like to have lots of in my wardrobe is separates, mainly because you can mix and match them up and have a completely different outfit each day and you only need a few key pieces. That is why I initially decided to make skirts.

I am currently working a full time day job and its difficult to squease in making new things for the shop each week – after I had initially made my basic skirt design, I knew I could mix it up, add embellishments and make individual pieces that people could enjoy. I love the high waisted look and the looks of the 40’s and 50’s and I’m also starting to enjoy the looks from the roaring 20’s and 30’s too, so I hope to start adding elements of those era’s into my designs.

In the long term, I hope to have a full range of items from skirts and blouses, to dresses and little jackets.

You use a lot of pretty, reused materials in your designs; why is it important to you to utilize these vintage materials?

I think the issue of global warming and recycling is a hot topic at the moment – we only get one planet and we really need to start looking after it. Vintage is also a hot topic in fashion right now and so blending the two together really does just make perfect sense.

I also love using vintage fabric because most of the time it was ethically made and made to a high standard, unlike today’s mass produced stuff. Don’t get me wrong though, I do buy fabric from the fabric store, I drive a car and I am guilty of not doing everything I can to make the world slightly happier. But I try to make up for it by recycling when I can, I have a little worm farm out the back of my house and I use vintage and upcycled fabrics in all of my designs.

What are your dreams for your shop in the near future (if you don’t mind sharing!)?

Of course not. I’d love to be doing this full time. I’m not sure how reasonable a dream that is but I plan to give it a good go at the end of this year. My job is coming to an end and while I’m still welcome to step back into my old job of being an assistant manager, after being a manager for a year and doing things my way, I don’t see that happening.

I also really want to take a break from full time work and maybe spend some of my days on my etsy store and my other days working in a bookstore (there is one in particular down here that I would love to work in!), I also love the thought of being answerable only to myself and doing things for me. Next year though, is a mystery because my partner is working on getting scholarships to do his phd and that could be here in NZ, UK, Canada, USA or even Australia, so we’ll see.

Do you have any tips for others who plan on starting their own business?

This is an interesting question – I am always searching for tips and ideas but find that I’m really one of those ‘lets just make it up and see if it works’ people – whether that’s a good trait or not, we’ll just have to see.

I had rough idea of what I wanted to do in regards to the shop, and I have a rough idea of where I want to go – whether things pan out that way though is another matter. It’s a scary thing to do, but also something I’m craving to give a go, and at the end of the day, if it fails, at least I gave one of my many dreams a shot – and some people don’t get the opportunity to even do that.

One key piece of advice that I have picked up along the way is going the extra mile to keep your customers happy. I like to think of my customers as my friends, I like to think of people who visit my blog/shop as friends and treat them in just the same way.

Thank you, Jen, for doing this lovely interview! Be sure to drop by her blog, Etsy shop, and Flickr!

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!

I’m sure many of you already know Solanah from her fantastic blog and enticing Etsy shop Vixen Vintage! She has a real flair for style, and her outfits are a constant source of eye candy and inspiration. Solanah is also single-handedly bringing back the concept of wearing fetching vintage hats to us of a younger generation (when the only hats we may have worn were for holidays to to protect us from the elements!), and blogs about the subject at The Bird Hat. I am so delighted to be able to bring you this review–she is such a sweet and inspiring style icon… enjoy!

Thank you so much for doing this interview! You seem to have quite a passion for vintage style; is this something that you’ve always been interested in? Did anyone in your family inspire you in this area? What is your best vintage-related memory?

When I was little I had a petticoat as frothy and lush as whipped cream. I wore that thing everywhere as a skirt, twirling about and watching the ruffles come to life. I think that one little petticoat was the start of it all, such a sweet memory, and romantic and feminine as can be.

Both my Aunt Nicole and Sister in law Amy dress vintage, and were big influences in my teenage years. I always liked the way they wore dresses, and did their hair, and wore bright red lipstick. They just felt right. I received a lot of hand me downs from them: 50s day dresses, 40s sundresses, jewelry, etc. After a while all the new things in my closet seemed to have gone away, replaced by bright cottons and patterns long out of print.

My mother of course is a great contributor to keeping up ladylike style. She taught me valuable things, like something that doesn’t show off a waist is just a waste. And if your bag doesn’t match your outfit, then the effect is ruined. Also the shoes. She has the most amazing shoes. High heels she wears everyday, because shoes make the outfit.

How would you describe your personal style? What is your favorite era and who are your fashion inspirations?

As much as I take inspiration from old film stars and vintage photoshoots, I am always more excited to see old photos of people like you and me. Girls dressed in skirts and blouses, with little socks and lace up shoes posing with their friends or sweethearts on the front porch. A lady all dressed up, ready to go out on a date and a picture is snapped of her just before she gets in the car. I love those because they are so real and relatable, and I can take those styles and details and wear them in everyday life. As much as I like to glamour up and wear a bombshell dress and four inch heels, for doing everyday things my style is more like a snippet of an old photo. Of course the “little old lady” look is very prominent in my closet, as I adore cardigans, high waisted pants, and big gaudy brooches. Older women have a knack for incorporating many eras into their outfit which I admire, since they have lived through ones I can only dream of!

Hats play a big role in your personal style! You always incorporate them with such flair into your outfits. Is this something that you were inspired to do on your own? What influenced you to start wearing hats on a regular basis?

Aw thank you Casey, you’re so flattering. I’ve always had a fascination with customs and styles that have gone out of fashion. I remember trying to learn the language of flowers, fans, carrying parasols, and one day I even checked a book out of the library on Latin. But hat’s seemed to have something I could never loose interest in. They were something I could incorporate into everyday life, no matter my mood or activity. Hat’s are not just for tea, they are for going to the supermarket, and having picnics, I even wear them to my nephew’s soccer games.

Some women feel good in stylish shoes, some in jewelry, but I adore hats. Our dining room as actually turned into “The Hat Room”, which consists of hats hanging on all four walls, a hat rack, shelves with hats, and a desk with hats. And still I want more, I must be addicted. But hey, if you’re going to be addicted to something, make it something stylish and cheap!

Do you have any tips for gals looking to plunge into the world of vintage hats?

There is a hat for everyone. You just have to find a style that suits you and also flatters your face. Most people can wear the 50s cap, because it stays close to the head, but not many people can pull off a 60s cloche, as they sit kind of awkwardly on top of the head. For a first hat go somewhere you can try them on, like a vintage store, or antique store. Maybe you’ll even find one at a thrift store! You can experience what it feels like to wear a hat, and if the shape works on you. You should also invest in a couple of hatpins, which can really be a collectible all by themselves, but the plain ones are inexpensive.

The wonderful thing about hats is that they generally are not expensive. It’s much easier to find a really nice hat at an affordable price because they are not worn anymore, so the value is considerably lower than a piece of clothing of the same era. Despite being easy on your pocketbook, they make such a strong impact on an outfit, and are completely original.

You work at a vintage shop, frequent a lot of estate sales and are a thrift store maven! Any tricks of the trade to scoring that amazing vintage find?

When I was around 6 and 7, my grandma was an antique dealer. I would go with her to estate sales, which were just wild to a 7 year old. Everyone was running around, grabbing stiff, there were some real characters. Now going to estate sales I love the nostalgia, and the competition. For big estate sales you have to work fast to get the best stuff, but thrifting is a much more lax treasure hunt. My best tip would be to find out when your local thrift store puts out new merchandise, that way you can have first pick. There are gems to be found, you just have to dig through the regular clothing before finding the good stuff.

Sewing with vintage patterns has been something you seem to be doing a lot of recently! What is your favorite project thus far? Any plans for future ones that you can tell us about?

I actually used to stay away from sewing patterns, I could never stick with them, always cutting out the pieces and sewing them together on my own. But most of the vintage patterns are pretty straightforward, and I’ve had luck with all but one 30s monstrosity. I’m currently working on a pink full skirted 50s dress I’ll wear on my honeymoon, I’m hoping to embroider it or add some personal details. My favorite project so far has been a little 30s dress I made with adorable bow printed cotton. I plan on making it again with some alterations, perhaps adding pockets or a monogram, It’s just really simple, yet sweet for those warm summer days.

You have a fantastic knack for mixing up vintage outfits that have a real flair and sense of personal aesthetic. What are your top five favorite pieces in your wardrobe right now?

You’re such a charmer.

I would have to include my black bird hat, as well as my blue bird hat, I mean, they are birds on hats. For me it doesn’t get any better. Plus the black one has a rhinestone collar, which is just the best.

I know it’s summer, but I miss wearing my 40s wool suits, especially the blue one that looks so much like the one Amy Adams wore in “Miss Pettigrew Lives For a Day”. 40’s suits in general are a favorite.

I have a 50s sundress that is just so pin-up girl, I love it so much. Unfortunately it hasn’t left my closet yet as the weather here has been less than summer like lately, but I plan on wearing it for picnics and walks around town.

My kitty skirt is a definite favorite, it puts everyone in a good mood.

Anything else you’d like to add?

All I can say is that ever since I’ve started my blog, I’ve made wonderful friends, and am part of a really supportive community. I get style tips and inspiration from blogs like yours and am thankful that I can return the favor. I only wish we all lived close so we could raid each other’s closets! XOXO

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!

I first “met” Fleur de Guerre through her website about a year ago. I was instantly struck by her killer vintage hairstyles, spot-on clothing and makeup, and her unique ability to nail the vintage style of modeling! Her portfolio of work is a treat to look through, and she is one of my favorite models in the vintage and pin up scene. Fleur is also one of the sweetest people I’ve come to know through chatting back and forth via our blogs (be sure to check out Fleur’s blog Diary of a Vintage Girl!). So I was over the moon when she agreed to do this interview and chat about vintage beauty tips, her love of fashion, and how she got started in the modeling business! I hope you will enjoy…

Thank you so much for doing this interview! We all love your beautiful photos and vintage style; how and when did you get started doing modeling work?

I did my first shoot in July 2007 – something I never thought I would ever have the chance, or courage to do! I’d admired many a retro pinup girl’s photos on the internet, but I was always far too self-conscious to try it out myself. But a friend of mine got in touch to tell me about a photographer called Nicole Klein, who wanted to start up her own pinup photography business called The Hourglass, and was offering 10 girls the chance to have their hair & makeup done and a shoot, for free, well, I kind of seized the opportunity without giving myself time to think or back out. I enjoyed it so much that I decided to book myself another shoot, this time with the UK’s top pinup photographer Tony Rusecki and an amazing makeup artist called Dani Richardson. I then joined up to a few modelling websites like Model Mayhem with my pictures and the shoot offers started coming in. The rest is history!

You’ve been photographed by quite a few photographers, appeared in periodicals and books, and even fashion shows! Do you have any advice or thoughts for ladies who are interested in perhaps doing a bit of retro-style modeling?

My advice to anyone wanting to have a go at retro modeling is to go to a professional for your first session. Working with Nicole and Tony was the best thing I could have done. It not only meant a fantastic start to my portfolio with high-quality pictures, but Nicole really boosted my confidence and then Tony’s experience meant that he could help me find my best angles and perfect my poses and expressions. Watching Dani as she made me up ensured I could buy the right products and recreate the makeup on myself, something that is crucial for good pictures. But my advice is definitely to learn how to do retro hair and makeup yourself. There aren’t all that many makeup artists or hairstylists who can do an authentic retro look. Another thing to make sure of is that you build, and maintain a good reputation. Don’t be late (or call your photographer and keep them informed if you are), or turn up looking awful with a hangover, always be over-prepared with clothes and props, and be a pleasure to work with! And be picky about who you work with, it’s about quality over quantity, in my opinion. Do all that, and you’re all set for success as a retro model!

You embody the look of the 40s and 50s so well; have you always been interested in vintage and retro fashion (what caught your interest initially about retro style)?

Since I was old enough to choose my own clothes, I was always into alternative fashion, but the interest in vintage didn’t come until later. I used to dress according to the music I listened to, first grunge and metal in my teens, then rockabilly. I had a 50s-inspired style for a couple of years, but I was still searching for my perfect look. When I started researching vintage hairstyles I discovered sites like the Fedora Lounge and became fascinated with the 40s. I basically felt drawn to a more authentic look, rather than the 50s pastiche that I had, and slowly but surely started to transform my wardrobe. I’ve been dressing (mostly) authentically 40s and 50s for about 3 years now and I can’t see myself ever changing… I’ve found my niche! I do feel an affinity with the time and do swing dancing and go to events so it’s not all about the superficial fashion. But on the other hand, I do see it as another form of the ‘alternative’ look I’ve always had, just more feminine and grown up.

What is your hands-down favorite era or style from the past? Who inspires you style-wise (contemporary or past)?

My absolutely favourite era is the very late 30s and early 40s, from about 1939-1942 or so. I love the shapes, the sleeves, the details, the skirt lengths, the hair, to movies… everything! If I could go back and order everything from one Sears catalogue, say, it would be one from those years. But really I’m not that restricted in my look, I have outfits from the mid 30s to the late 50s (as well as modern stuff), and I do mix eras, I have to say. As far as style inspiration, while I do have my favourite glamorous stars of the past like Virginia O’Brien and Yvonne DeCarlo, I am more inspired by my real life vintage girlfriends, who have the most wonderful array of clothes and enviable hair skills.

You usually do your own makeup and hair for shoots, correct? Any tips or tricks for gals who want to achieve the perfect vintage coif? Got any “secret weapon” products you use?

You are correct! I don’t use anything particularly special, Lottabody setting lotion, Tressemme Freeze Hold Hairspray and Frizz-ease serums which I only just tried out, but they are great for taming my frizzy flyaways (of which I have many!). I favour sponge rollers over pin-curls, but only because I have never had the patience to master them and find sponge rollers work brilliantly so I have no need to. I’d say my best ‘secret’ weapon is my rat, which is just one of these things cut in half, and covered with my own hair at the ends to prevent it showing. It makes doing faux bangs an absolute doddle! The most important tip: practice makes perfect! When you do it every day it becomes second nature, and looks a lot better.

I notice you find a lot of things on Ebay to add to your wardrobe. Are there any other online venues you love to frequent for vintage-inspired clothes and accessories?

I do use Etsy to find things, it’s got quite good for vintage, though I’ve used it more for costume jewellery than clothes. I find most online vintage shops are priced too high for my budget. For vintage inspired and repro clothing lines I love, do check out my website links page, there’s a good comprehensive list there. Unfortunately I haven’t updated it in a while, but I have started a regular feature on my blog on Vintage Inspired fashion, in which I aim to find the best repro and modern clothes out there. So please do have a read of that!

I’m sure you, like many others, have a fashion “wish list”. What are some of your top “must haves” right now?

My wishlist is so long it could probably stretch across the Atlantic! In terms of fantasy vintage wishes, I would love a mint Lilli Ann suit or coat (or both!). And there is always room in my wardrobe for more of my beloved Swirl dresses. But my next must-have purchase for the summer party/wedding/event season is a new dress from Whirling Turban . I’ve worn my one so much and really got my money’s worth, but it’s time for a change. If only our mighty British Pound wasn’t so weak and feeble!

(Thank you again, Fleur! If you haven’t already, be sure to trot on over to Fleur’s website and blog for more vintage fun!)

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!

Inspiring Interviews is a new, occasional feature in which I will be chatting with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them.

    

Sarai Mitnick is the creative imagination behind the lovely Sweet Sassafrass blog and her vintage-influenced pattern line Colette Patterns. Her projects and fashion musings on her blog have inspired me for quite some time, and I was delighted last year when I heard she was preparing to offer sewing patterns. Sarai asked me to test one of her excellent patterns (a review will be forthcoming!), upon which my excitement for this line began to build, and she has graciously allowed me to interview her in conjunction with Colette Patterns debut! Whether you are a fellow seamstress, or just appreciate beautiful clothes with a vintage aesthetic and a creative personality, I think you will enjoy this interview!

Thank you so much Sarai for doing this interview! Could you introduce yourself a bit; what is your background in sewing in design? Is there anyone who influenced you in this area of creativity, or is this an interest you developed yourself? Are you self taught?

Thanks for inviting me, Casey!

My grandmother originally taught me the basics of sewing when I was in high school, so I’ve been sewing for about 12 years now. Much of it is self-taught. I’m the sort of person who gets interested in something and obsessively researches, learns more, and tries to improve. So sewing is perfect for me because there’s always more to learn.

I started because I had an unusual (ok… weird) style as a teenager and wanted to make things I couldn’t find in the stores. At the time, I made a lot of crazily-patterned mini dresses and skirts with odd trims on them. My style has evolved a lot over time, and I think sewing has helped me in that regard. It really allows you to explore your individual style, rather than relying on what other people are producing for large markets. Right now, I like a combination of feminine vintagey cuts with a modern subtlety to them.

My professional background is in User Experience, and I think those skills have really translated into the business as well. I wanted my patterns to be objects of delight in themselves, easy to use, and projects people would feel excited about diving into.

You talk a bit about fashion and memory on your site; do you find that memories of past garments influence your current design? Where do you find inspiration for coming up with new designs?

Clothing is such an important part of our life and culture, but most people think about it in the context of consumerism and frivolity. But I think it’s like food. If you spend time and make a meal yourself from your favorite fresh ingredients, you will remember it and cherish it so much more than a cheap fast food snack. And it will nourish you more.

A lot of my inspiration comes from the past, vintage clothing I’ve owned over the years, or just styles from previous decades. I especially love the “golden era” of the 1930s and 1940s. They have such a timeless, adaptable quality that works just as well today. Vintage lingerie is another huge inspiration, because I think it’s so incredibly flattering and comfortable. The Chantilly dress pattern, for example, was partially inspired by a frothy white 1960s nightgown I discovered at a thrift store in LA. It just had the most gorgeous, flattering shape. I felt so pretty in it, I wanted one in every color!

I’m really inspired by the everyday women of my grandmothers’ generation, who might spend their evenings crafting beautiful dresses or doing incredible needlework or knitting for their loved ones. I’d like to think I can help keep that sort of practical art alive today.

How did you develop the Colette Pattern line? Did you come up with a number of garments and whittle them to the final offering? Or was it a more organic process?

I am like a magpie, I collect and organize inspiration constantly. I have a moleskine sketchbook I carry around all the time to jot ideas and little details I like. So when it was time to create the collection, I had a lot of ideas to start with. I knew I wanted to start with a focus on dresses with one or two separates and build from there. I also wanted them to be timeless and somewhat trans-seasonal. I came up with a list of criteria and gradually pared down the ideas to something I felt was varied, versatile, and beautiful.

I’m dying to ask: are you a draper or drafter when it comes to pattern development?

I am a drafter, for sure! I do a little draping now and then, but I love the versatility of flat pattern drafting. Also, I like math and puzzles.

I love the name “Colette”–it always makes me think of a glamorous gal from the 1920s! What’s the story behind the name?

Colette is the name of my beautiful cat, but she in turn was named after the French writer, Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette (whose pen name was simply Colette). Colette was a free thinker and a brilliant writer, and her novels and stories are wonderful depictions of experiencing life through the senses.

You mentioned some of the current fashion collections recently on your blog: do you have a favorite designer (or multiple designers!) that you feel never fails to inspire you?

So many! I’ve always loved Lanvin and Chanel, but there are so many great designers these days. Right now, I’ve been really enjoying Luella, Temperley, Luisa Beccaria, Zac Posen. My all time favorite collection was Marc Jacobs Fall 2004. It is endlessly inspiring as a modern take on vintage style.

What is your dream for Colette Patterns? Say in five years, where do you envision yourself and your business?

I’d love for Colette Patterns to be widely available in independent shops around the country and beyond! I want them to be beloved by sewists, and to have an opportunity to expand the line a great deal. I’d love to do patterns for some sassy loungewear, accessories, even knitting patterns! My dream is to have a line that would allow someone to craft an entire beautiful, personalized wardrobe. I just want to make pretty canvases for other women to experiment on.

Any final thoughts you’d like to share? Any favorite links, resources, etc.?

One book I can’t recommend enough is The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Colette Wolff. It may be my favorite sewing book. It’s basically a huge resource of ideas for different techniques that can be applied to fabric: shirring, tucking, pleating, etc. It’s a great inspiration for customizing your sewing!

For fabric, I just love Fashion Fabrics Club. There are so many sites selling fun cotton prints that are really great for quilting. But I find that for clothing, the things I really want to wear are just great solid colors and textures. This is where you can get silk in a range of colors at very reasonable prices.

I’ll also recommend Vintage Sewing, though it may be old news to some. They’ve digitized a number of public domain sewing books. It’s a great reference!

I love making clothing, I really feel it brings a whole other level of enjoyment to what I wear. Colette Patterns really gives me an opportunity to share that joy with others, and I’m so grateful for that!

Thank you again, Sarai! I hope you all enjoyed this interview; be sure to keep your eyes peeled for my review of the Colette Pattern that I tested!

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!