Forties Fashion has long been on my wishlist, but after being able to borrow a copy recently and read it, it’s definitely gone on my “must add to personal library” list! The book by Johnathan Walford and subtitled “From Siren Suits to the New Look” is one of those rare books that I feel satisfies both visually and manages to also pack quite a punch in the text. Though the book encompasses the entirety of the 40s, it focuses mainly on the wartime fashions, and the impact the conflict had on design and ingenuity within fashion. I think what I found most fascinating was that the book dealt with both “Allied” and “Axis” fashion; most books on the 40s tend to fall into the category of one or the other, or focus more on the Hollywood fantasy fashion created during the era (which is fun, but doesn’t accurately reflect what most people–especially those outside of the US–were able to afford and find during the war years).

Rationing, of course, is a big theme throughout the book. I’ve been somewhat acquainted with it over the years–more peripherally than anything else (and having heard stories from those in my grandparent’s generation about not being able to buy/source certain garment pieces, and having to make do). Susannah over at Cargo Cult Craft has written some great posts on rationing and austerity in Britain during the 40s, but Forties Fashion better acquainted me not only with the British and American restrictions, but other countries as well. Realizing just how little many people had to make do and get by on (and even less and less towards the end of the war), was not only sobering but a bit of a smack in the face of our consumeristic tendencies as a collective society. These severe restrictions on materials and manufacturing within the fashion industry at the time, of course led to the famous “make do and mend” campaigns in many countries (in their various permutations).

I know I’ve said this before (and I daresay you’ll hear me say it again), but the ingenuity that limited resources encourages is always stunning to me. Making something out of very little is a gift that I think more recent generations (and I can safely say mine, having collectively been a relatively well off generation) have lost and perhaps have no appreciation for outside of the history book facts. The way people were able to scrounge and remake things, particularly garments, in order to keep things fresh and exciting, furnishes a lot of fodder for my imagination. I have to honestly say that reading about the French fashion “make do’s” was particularly intriguing; not only did they have severe restrictions that most of Europe dealt with, but many of the fashions coming out of France had that theatrical flair that is particularly unique to them.

Forties Fashion of course does deal with the immense impact that the postwar changes in silhouette had on women’s clothing. Thankfully too, the author does not just tag Dior with being the only innovator of the “New Look” silhouette and let it go at that (in the very late 30s a similar silhouette had begun to develop, but was interrupted by the war, but was taken up by designers post war again). He digs a bit deeper into the subject and gives a more satisfying overview of the change. There are even pictures of garments that were altered from the wartime silhouette to fit within the New Look’s lines.

If you haven’t had a chance to get your hands on a copy of this book, I highly recommend it not only from a fashion history perspective, but also a visual history as well. Fashion books, for me at least, are best when they’re a blend of the two, and Forties Fashion does an excellent job of this!

So tell me: what have you been reading lately?

If Claire McCardell is my American sportswear designer idol, then Valentina Schlee (more commonly and simply known as “Valentina” professionally) is the American couturier version. I have long been acquainted with Russian-born designer Valentina; thanks to an article in Threads years ago. I was fascinated by her theatrical personality and the gorgeously simple clothes she created. She was considered one of the New York designers from the 1930s to 50s, catering to the wealthy and upper classes of society. Despite being on par with more well known American couturiers such as Mainbocher and Charles James, she and her work have largely been forgotten.

Since I read that Threads article, I thought it was a shame that no one had authored a comprehensive book on Valentina’s work and her life. Thankfully, Kohl Yohannan (who also wrote an excellent book on Claire McCardell), remedied this situation with a large, glossy book filled with pictures of her work and piecing together Valentina’s life and work. Fascinating in her ability to create a theatrical persona and hide her (probable) humble origins in Russia, Valentina’s life story and impact on fashion as a unique personality fill most of the book. Originally an actress and dancer, her early life is quite obscure as she fled Russia during the upheaval of the Revolution and traveled about Europe for a time before landing in the United States. She had already established her own sense of style: more gothic and simple than the glittery-glamorous looks that permeated the fashion world in the 1920s, and created quite a splash in New York society with her elegantly simple and expertly cut designs. She went on to work with some of the most influential and famous women in the U.S. at the time (including Greta Garbo), and her design house lasted into the 1950s before she closed the doors as demand for fine, custom dressmaking began to decline.

The book is dripping with beautifully reproduced photographs of Valentina’s designs, the performers she costumed, the editorials she modeled for (she was notorious for insisting on being the model to photograph and show her own designs to their fullest potential), and early images of the designer. It’s an amazing compilation of a great designer’s work and her aesthetic. My only disappointment with the book is that it neglects to show the garments in a museum-like setting. In Kohl Yohannan’s book on McCardell, it relies greatly on modern photos of McCardell’s work that is owned by museums. I feel like if images like this had been included in the book, it would have allowed the reader a better view and appreciation for the shaping and detail work on the garments Valentina created. (This was done in the Threads article, much to the delight of my curious eyes!)

Still, that being said, it’s a delightful book that I hope to add to my bookshelf very soon. It not only is a beautiful look at mid-20th century fashion, but a fitting tribute to a long-forgotten and marginalized designer who impacted both the design world and New York society in so many ways.

A couple weekends ago, Kayte emailed me with some surprise news: I had won a giveaway she’d done for her new book Complete Embellishing. Of course, I had managed to forget about it between the time I entered and her email, but I was ecstatic to find I would be receiving a copy (that’s autographed too!!)! The idea of having a whole book on embellishment ideas, plus techniques and tips for achieving them, really appealed to me. This book did not disappoint either: from the gorgeous photography, to the extensive techniques and ideas… I keep flipping through the pages and coming up with all kinds of plans and schemes for projects!

The book is spiral bound, which immediately drew me in because it makes using them so much more convenient (no trying to prop a book open!). The first section covers a myriad of embellishment-appropriate techniques like sewing, felting, making trim, attaching beads, and one sub header that really caught me: fabric printing. The latter half of the book is devoted to projects you can create using these techniques. Both garments and accessories, plus home furnishings are covered. Of course, being the clothes-centric gal I am, I sat up and paid close attention to the clothing embellishment. I am especially eying the Victoriana Cardigan, Mod Squad tee, and adorable Rainy Day skirt.

But it doesn’t stop there… Oh no! Lots of ideas for adding some personality to my accessories: from shoe embellishments (finally! I can create Anthropologie-worthy footwear!), to tote bags and doily scarves. *sigh* I’m in love with all the clever ideas Kayte dreamed up! So I’d definitely recommend dashing out and buying yourself a copy of Complete Embellishing… especially if you’re looking to add some snap! to your existing wardrobe.

(And completely off-topic… I know I promised full length pictures of the dress I made recently. But I wasn’t able to get any taken, and I’m having a bit of a “bad kitty day” as Dad would say… So Monday instead, my dears!)

[ completely random picture of vintage shoes I bought yesterday. they're a little big, so I'm not sure I'm keeping them yet... ]

Feeling inspired and creative yet? Just in case you aren’t, here’s this week’s wonderfully diverse Friday Inspiration links:

• ♥ Theresa sent me a sweet email this week, and while browsing her blog, I found this great idea for jazzing up binders!
• ♥ Amy posted about an adorable sweater refashion this week
• ♥ this set of color photos from the 1930s is jaw dropping amazing [ via ]
• ♥ I love this idea of a simple shadow box
• ♥ issue #2 of mankind mag is up!
• ♥ I’ve been frequenting the PO a lot lately, which means this post office tote would come in very handy! [ via ]
• ♥ I need to make one of these cute ipod nano covers for my pink one! (aptly named “Marilyn”…)

Have a lovely weekend, my sweet friends!

The weather has been going back and forth, forth and back, for the past two weeks. It is now starting to affect my head on a daily basis! I woke up this morning with the distinct impression that I had cotton stuffed between my ears… which has made my morning a rather muddled, and entertaining mess (thank goodness for to-do lists!)! hehe! So I apologize in advance if this post is a wee bit… well… out of it. lol.

I relaxed all weekend; which was nice after the ups and downs of the previous week. I try not to get into personal matters on this blog, but let’s suffice to say that we had a situation with an extended family member, taking up a good deal of emotional energy. Its been stressful for my parents especially, so I’ve been having to step in and “hold down the fort” as my daddy likes to say. hehe. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this week will be just a wee less dramatic. So, as a result, I feel rather bad that I don’t have a ton of exciting things to blog about this morning. But I hope you will understand…

I have been doing some reading–non-school reading! Hurrah! On Saturday afternoon, my sweet mum surprised me with my own copy of Bead Simple. Thank you, Mom!! I am now plotting what to make next… and being quite bad spending time searching through Etsy’s wonderfully-tempting bead supply category. I already made a few little purchases. hehe! But I’m trying to be a little good, and “go shopping” through my collection of vintage jewelry that I don’t wear often.

I’m also reading the utterly inspiring and delightfully-written Anti 9 to 5 Guide by Michelle Goodman (per Kate’s recommendation). I haven’t gotten terribly far in it yet, but the first chapter has made me feel quite a bit more at ease about my seeming “inability” to stay motivated working a normal job. hehe! I shall have a full review when I’m done!

Something I wanted to share with you all; a super-simple project that is perfect for adding a bit of sweetness to any outfit! Last week, in a fit of needing some new, pretty accessory for one of my “tried and true” outfits, I pulled out some antique dress trim and whipped up this little bow pin:

Its made from an antique, 1880s dressing gown I purchased years ago (the photo is of an art project that I showed last spring in the school-wide art show, in which I used this gown). Its falling apart, but the moire ribbons are still largely intact. Which means perfect for salvaging and reusing! Just stitched together and to a pin back, it makes for a quick, and interchangeable little bit of flair for any outfit! I’m thinking perhaps I need to make one up in a piece of wide lace as well–and maybe one of my favorite, vintage cotton prints (with the edges unfinished–just so it doesn’t get too time consuming and complicated!). Do you have any favorite, quick and easy tricks to liven up an outfit? Do share!!

Now for this week’s Vintage Monday feature! This is from a 1947 pattern catalog in my collection, which I am constantly referencing for ideas! Just look at the sweet ruffles and shirring along the skirt! Would be so pretty in a modern dress too, I think–perhaps with a more modern fabric or even something like a knit!

Keep an eye out for the first Nifty Thrift post later this afternoon! I’m so excited to launch a week-long thrift-love fest!

Have a lovely Monday, my dears!!!

Cheers!

[ http://blog.caseybrowndesigns.com/?p=403

First things first: Today is the last day to sign up for the Creative Cacaphony Swap! Be sure to email me by this evening (with the information outlined here) so I can add you to the list. I’ve been quite surprised by the enthusiastic response–I think its going to be loads of fun!

Alas, I still haven’t attached the ruffle to the dress. It’s turned out to be one of those weeks, where everything is just zooming by far to fast. hehe! Not that I mind, but I am definitely spending some serious time with my machine this weekend… once I finish leftover homework, that is! However, I have gotten some creating done! I checked out Bead Simple from the library yesterday (after Tricia posted a glowing review), and managed to try out a few things with my stash of vintage bits and bobs collecting dust. lol. I made this super-simple, but very pretty, necklace using some odd chain I had and about fifteen minutes of time while making dinner. I’m itching to try out a pair of earrings, or perhaps another necklace!

I must, unfortunately, keep this post short; I’ve got a to-do list nearly a mile long! hehe. Take care, my friends; enjoy the links and have a simply wonderful weekend!!!

♥ such pretty, simple garments @ nooy [ via ]
♥ how to properly rip out sewn seams
♥ an artist we briefly talked about in Design History
♥ to die-for vintage [ via ]
♥ interview with Maira Kalman!
♥ save polaroid. ‘nuff said
♥ alana davis’s beautiful photography [ via ]

Cheers!

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