Part of prepping for the move has meant going through my closet and deciding what I need to take or add to the giveaway pile. My clothes are mostly of the summery sort, so I’ve been weeding out things that aren’t really my style or just don’t work for me any longer. But in the mix is my large collection of coats. Large, that is, for Florida. Most of them come from my pre-Florida days, and boy am I glad I hung on to those! I’ve been pulling them out, brushing them off and checking things over for mending that needs to be done or buttons that need to be replaced. (I have a habit of loosing buttons on my coats…) In the spirit of coming coat-weather, I decided to share a few scans from 1947 of coats that would be just as beautiful to wear today as they were then…

Part 2

As promised, the follow-up to Wednesdays post with details on how I adjusted the Smooth Sailing trousers pattern to make jeans. Please note that I did not thoroughly document this process, and these are just the notes I took during the project. So if you want to do something similar, a familiarity with pattern adjustment (and plenty of pattern paper!) is recommended. Note too that any measurement adjustments made were for the size 14 in the pattern packet.

Referencing both pictures I had saved over time of 1940s and early 50s women’s jeans, as well as images in some of my magazines and catalogs from the period, I altered the pattern to fit the details I liked. What I wanted were jeans that had a slightly wider/straight leg, pocket detailing, and the side zipper placket that was common on women’s jeans of the era. Here’s a break down of the alterations I made to the WH pattern:

• Tapered the inner leg slightly. On the front this was 1” at the hem and tapered to nothing at the crotch. On the back it was about 1 3/8” to nothing at the crotch. I didn’t want the legs quite as wide as the original pattern.
• I adjusted the side seams to 3/4” rather than 1/2” to allow for adjustment as needed. These were then trimmed down (save for the left placket opening) to 1/2” for felling the seams.
• I added pockets to the front hip by making a diagonal cut along the upper/outer hip for the pocket opening, and making facings and a hip piece. The facing was cut from scrap muslin, as was the bottom (hidden) portion of the hip piece. This reduced bulk over the upper hip. (Scroll down for photo of the muslin pocket facing.)
• I added a yoke to the back hip but cutting off a portion that mimicked some of the hip yoke shapes on jeans of the era. The back has a dart, and I just closed the dart on the hip yoke and eliminated it. The back pants still had a short dart though for improved fit (darts are totally acceptable on 40s/50s women’s jeans).
• I also added back patch pocket pieces, which I shaped based on a pair of my husband’s Levis!

The denim I used was originally purchased for a slipcover for my sofa (I used the leftover length for the jeans), so it was fairly heavy stuff. What I would term a medium weight denim—definitely the stuff you’re more likely to find in the home décor section of a fabric store. It is also 100% cotton and has absolutely no stretch, which is what I wanted! I always loved heavy, no-stretch jeans when I was a kid, and hated that I could never find a decent pair of jeans once manufacturers started used Lycra in denim. I was trying to make these jeans like the Real Jeans I remembered wearing when I was younger. Tough, somewhat stiff, and very hard wearing!

For thread I used regular thread in my bobbin and needle for seams that wouldn’t show. For the flat fell and topstitched seams, I used regular thread in my bobbin (white) and a heavy topstitching thread in the needle (gold). Of course, a jeans needle is a must for this project. I experimented a bit with a double needle for topstitching as well, but found the machine I was using (my computerized Kenmore) didn’t like working with the heavier thread in both needles. So I just did the double rows one at a time.

Construction was a bit tricky since I had to wing it and keep referencing what information I could find online. (Eventually I’d like to get my hands on this dvd, or the issues of Threads I have in storage at my parent’s house that have jeans sewing articles.) But the break down of steps:

• Sew back darts, press and use clapper to flatten bulkiness.
• Sew each half of the hip yoke to respective back pants pieces. Use flat fell seam.
• Serge edges of patch pockets. Fold under 1/2” along top edge and top stitch (double line). Sew a decorative line of double topstitching along the lower 1/3. Fold remaining edges under 1/2”. Pin to back pieces using dart directions to orient placement, and topstitch in place.
• Add pocket facing to front jeans pieces, top stitch. Attach pocket hip facing to denim hip piece. Sew both facings together (using serger) around the curved edge. Baste to waist and side seam.
• Sew zipper along left side opening.
• Baste jeans together along the legs and crotch seams, fit. Trim seams to 1/2”.
• Flat fell seam the outer legs. Press using clapper to flatten bulkiness.
• Flat fell seam the inner legs (this is where it got tricky, but doing the shorter seam second helped a lot! It would have been harder if I did the inner seams first and then the outer.) Press well with clapper.
• Sew crotch seam and serge edge. False flat fell the seam on the outside with double rows of topstitching. (I did this to reduce bulk.)
• Make belt loops (four total; two in front, two in back).
• Sew belt loops at regular intervals around waistband.
• Attach waistband. For the inside I just serged the long edge and “stitched in the ditch” to catch it from the outside. By not folding that raw edge under, I reduced the bulk at the waist.
• Work buttonhole in waistband (front). Attach button to waistband (back).
• Reinforce various stress-points on jeans. On modern jeans this is usually done with rivets, but I had noticed some of the women’s jeans from this era had stitching at these points, rather than rivets. I just used heavy thread in my needle and backstitched over these areas.
• Hem pants legs. I waffled a bit about this, but decided to hem the legs long this time so I could cuff them to the correct length. Eventually I’ll probably make jeans that are hemmed at the correct length for me, so I can roll and cuff them further up the leg (like pedal pushers).

Some things I would change next time:

• Adjust seams to 5/8” all around; 1/2” (standard on the pattern) is a bit too fiddly to work with—especially when doing flat fell seams.
• Add 1” at the left hip opening for a proper zipper placket. Claire Schaeffer has instructions in her Fabric Sewing Guide (I have the 1989 edition—don’t know if these are included in the newest) on how t do a flat fell placket, but I totally forgot to cut the placket are with extra. As such, my zipper placket is a bit wonky (but works).
• Reduce the waist a bit. I added a little extra room into the waist since I knew the denim would add bulk. Didn’t really need it though, and the waist is a bit big for me! Easy to remedy for now though.
• Buy proper jeans buttons—the sort that are attached with a rivet. I just am not crazy about using a regular button. Or perhaps try an oversized snap?

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! As I’ve said, this was my first foray into jeans-making, so I’m definitely not an expert. What I am is a crazy seamstress who just “goes with the flow” and tries not to overthink things! lol. (The key, I think, to some projects!) I’ll try my best to help with any queries…

Part 1

I finally did it, dear readers! Make jeans, that is. I’ve rolled the idea around in my head for some time, but the idea of sewing jeans was either intimidating (all those layers of denim and flat fell seams—oh my!), or other projects proved far more enticing. But circumstances (and pocket book) pushed me into finally making my own. I’ll be posting particulars about how I altered the pattern I used (see details at the end of this post for links), as well as construction, on Friday. So stay tuned for that, if you’re curious! For right now, here’s an overview and lots (too many?) pictures!

Other inspiration resources: New Vintage Lady denim post, Lauren’s vintage jeans, and Amy Jeanne’s vintage tshirts and jeans post.

Of course, with the 40s being my favorite era for fashion, I pulled inspiration for these jeans from some late 40s/early 50s images I had in my own collection as well as things I had found online over the years. Typically, this style jean has the high waist, hip pockets, one or two back patch pockets, and a full, but slightly tapered (not completely straight) leg. The hem can be left plain or cuffed, depending on the style and wearer. Jeans for women zipped or had a button placket on the left side—fly front zippers on women’s jeans were not commonplace until later. I also noticed that jeans for women from this era could either have rivets at stress points, or not. My jeans pretty exclusively follow the lines of the era as I wanted these to look like the ones I had seen in pictures (and not just like denim trousers, which I had made before!). You won’t find any Lycra or tight fit here! Comfort and practicality were the keywords, but with a vintage flair.

Pattern: Wearing History Smooth Sailing Trousers, heavily “sliced and diced” to emulate the details and lines of late 40s jeans. (I’ve made these trousers previously and loved them.)

Fabric: 100% cotton denim; medium weight (purchased originally for a slip cover).

Alterations: Added a front hip pocket, back yoke, patch pockets, tapered the legs. Will have more details on the alterations I made in the next post.

Techniques: Flat fell seams, mock flat fell, topstitching, adding hip seam pockets, adding belt loops, side placket zipper.

Make Again? Considering I rarely (if ever!) find jeans that fit me perfectly, yes! I can’t say sewing jeans is my absolute favorite sort of sewing, but I don’t loathe it either. For the fit and customization, it’s definitely worth the effort (plus I have a perfected pattern now, so that saves time!).

Stay tuned for a post on Friday with some more specifics about how I adjusted the pattern to make these jeans!

Good morning, friends! Today I have a little bit of inspiration for you, this time from November 1940. Timely, I think, because if reading comments and other blogs is any indication, most of us are itching for fall. (Have I gone on about this enough already?! I know… Fall is my favorite season, what can I say? I’m hoping to have a post up later this week with some of the ideas I have for my own fall wardrobe and sewing plans.) I don’t think I’ve posted these images before, but if I have (it’s getting hard to keep track of what I have and haven’t over the past several years!), my apologies. At any rate, I think they’re worth a look!

I love the cowl neckline, fixed into the shoulder yoke on the right dress! The skirt draping is beautiful as well.

Love all the pocket styles on the left sidebar skirts and dresses! Definite sewing inspiration!

The dress with the plaid body and solid yoke is a fantastic idea!

Loving some of the bodice drapery and midriff details.

These skirts look so elegant! I especially love the “two piece” evening ensemble; a great idea.

More beautiful day dresses! The sailor dress is, not surprisingly, a favorite. I also love the pockets on design #3559–very interesting and unusual for this period.

The drape-front skirt (far right) is gorgeous. I can see something like this updated on a modern cocktail/evening dress. The contrast belt on #3573 is very fun!

Loving the “sugar cookie fashions”–so cute!

Stay tuned tomorrow, as I have a fun sewing project I’ve been working on in secret to share!

Hello, dear friends! Goodness… it seems like it’s been ages since I’ve posted here—or at the very least been able to interact. I feel like I’ve missed out on a lot the past week in blog-land too; it’s a weird feeling to have been offline for over a week and come back to a feed reader bulging with great posts! I missed you all so much and am glad to be slowly getting back to blogging and catching up on emails and questions. My apologies for the delay; between the dratted ISP issues last week, a last-minute trip I had to take (it’s still a bit hush-hush right now, but sewing-related! I can’t wait to tell y’all about it in the near future!), and then the holiday weekend, the last ten days just slipped right through my fingers.

Needless to say, the internet connection issues have pushed the Circle Skirt schedule back a bit. I’ll be posting the drafting instructions on September 8 (instead of the scheduled 2nd), and bumping the rest of the schedule up accordingly. If you asked a question on either of the last two posts for the sew-along, I’m going to be trying to reply to those over the next two days.

Does anyone else feel that summer rushed by far too fast? Every time I look at the calendar I do a double take: can we really be almost one week into September? Where did August go? It’s true that this summer proved to be a bit of a roller coaster for me, and circumstances just sucked a lot of my emotional and creative energy away. But autumn is nearly here… With that there are changes on the horizon for SH and I, but I am eager to get to work on little projects and also enjoying the bits of autumn I love. Like bags of candy corn, silly scented candles that smell like apple pie spices, cozy cardigans, and the weather cooling just enough to make me want to take up baking again… Things are going to be busy for us the next couple months, but I’m relishing the new opportunities and experiences waiting for us.

But enough of my rambling! Time for some inspirational images… These are all pulled from various mid-1940s sources and each has something to do with sewing. Right now I’ve been doing a bit of fabric shopping here and there, trying to gather some supplies for my fall sewing (the trip I hinted at may or may not have included a fabric shopping excursion which resulted in my having to squeeze several pieces of gorgeous silk into my already over-stuffed luggage!). I seem to be gravitating towards rich jewel-tones and soft, draping textiles for this autumn. After a spring and summer of delicate pastels and lots of white (I am in the deep south after all!), I’m ready for some richness in my wardrobe…

Loads of buttons! I’ve been on the hunt lately for vintage buttons at the thrift shops, but my search hasn’t yielded anything quite this magnificent!

The drape of this jersey fabric is beautiful…

I’ll take one bolt of each color, please!

Designer colors–aren’t these gorgeous? Yes, I know this is spring fabric–but that green is appealing to me!

I hope you are having a lovely day, friends!!!