As soon as I started hearing that Amazon was shipping copies of Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing early, I went ahead and snapped up a copy for myself! I’ve been eager to see how Gertie (whose blog many of us sewing-types love) had translated and added to the knowledge she’s shared over the years through her blog. It’s been amazing to watch her journey from just starting her blog to publishing a book. My hat goes off to her for her success! She’s well known in the sewing world for her love of and extensive use of vintage and couture style techniques, which oozes from every page of this book.
The book is a fantastic compendium of information for those who are interested in sewing vintage inspired garments. About half the book is devoted to the basics of sewing and techniques. I admit, I just skimmed over this because I have so many vintage sewing books that much of the information is just repetitive to me. And having been so immersed in the vintage sewing culture online for the past decade, there is no new information to me about the pros and cons of vintage versus new patterns, storing them, sizing, etc. But, I have to say what impressed me the most is that Gertie hasn’t watered down many of these sewing methods, which makes this a great resource for those who are looking to expand their sewing knowledge (even if vintage style sewing isn’t your thing). It’s like all the essentials of Couture Sewing Techniques and the best vintage sewing books, only condensed into just the ones that most home casual sewists will need or use. You’ll find everything from how to make a self covered belt (yay!), to tailoring, common handstitches, hemming for different skirt styles, and her favorite couture zipper insertion methods.
The patterns are what I really bought this book for, I have to admit! Packaged along with the book in a sleeve inside the front cover (and printed on heavier paper!), the styles range from super fitted dresses to separates, but all have a distinct vintage flair which is Gertie’s trademark look. I’m a bit sad that I won’t be able to make any of these up until post-baby–because the 1940s zip front dress is really calling to me! (But will be super comfy to wear after the baby arrives with it’s shirred elastic waist, and nursing friendly too! I have the perfect novelty print rayon I’ll be saving for this.) I feel like Gertie found a good balance of classic styles that can be made suitable for day or fancier wear based on your fabric and embellishment choices. Whether you want to make a more involved suit jacket or a classic pencil skirt, there are some really fetching base styles here. The patterns range from a 32″ bust to 46″, and have been tailored for gals with larger hiplines (like myself!) in mind.
I am pretty impressed by the basics of drafting and pattern alteration that she managed to fit into the book. Condensing this sort of information in an understandable manner is no easy feat. It’s not extensive as a book devoted to drafting would be, but for the average sewist, it’s a great starting point. Another aspect that I love about this book is how Gertie stresses planning out your sewing process. Rather than rely on step-by-step instructions, she encourages you to gather the knowledge you absorbed in the first (techniques) half of the book, and apply it to making the garments in the second half. While there are instructions, they are more guidelines. When you start to strike out onto your own and customize patterns, the ability to know what technique and steps to use when becomes extremely helpful, and yet something that a lot of sewing books don’t teach. Kudos, Gertie!
May I just say a word on the aesthetics of this book? I am completely in love with the sketchy illustrations scattered throughout the book! Cute with a retro vibe, but they don’t look like they’re out of a circa 1950 book (not a bad thing, but just updated and a little cheekier!). The spiral binding is a big plus too; the ongoing trend for opting to use that binding method with crafting books is something I love. So much easier to keep you’re book open when you’re referring to a technique.
If you love vintage or vintage inspired sewing, but are frustrated by the lack of affordable vintage patterns (or styles that translate well for the 21st century woman), or are looking for a good resource to up your sewing skills, then I definitely recommend taking a look at Gertie’s book. I know my copy is going on my sewing shelf and I’m eagerly looking forward to making a few things next year!
I pre-ordered this book, and I got it before its “official” publication. I love it! I’m not a vintage maven, but I love her style of writing, and like you, I really like the fact that Gertie didn’t dumb down for her audience. And the art direction of the book is fantastic. Not a sherbet color in sight. Brava, Gertie!
Thanks for the review, I was pondering about whether to get it or not. Think I will now thanks to your review
PS Hope your mom is feeling better! x
Yes, this book is on my birthday list
Glad it is all I was hoping for!
I hope your mother is feeling better soon!
I hope your mother feel better soon!
Thanks for the review. And how nice that teh patterns are up to 46- I have been wondering about that!
I think I might need this. Granted, with who taught me to sew (my grandmother was born in 191? (not quite sure of the year, but I know the decade!) and my mother in 1945.) I know some “vintage” techniques that I’ve just always taken for granted. “Heirloom” sewing was fairly easy to drop into because ‘heirloom’ and ‘vintage’ techniques are pretty much the same thing. But Gertie knows sooo much and I’m thinking that her book will be a useful resource!
I think her book is like an expanded version of all her blog tutorials and knowledge she’s shared there over the years!
Definitely worth buying. 
♥ Casey
I received my copy also, I’m sure I will use it as a great reference tool. I have not gotten to look over all the patterns included but still have to get through the entire book. Hopefully plenty of sewing ideas for the winter months ahead.
I’ve heard a lot about Gertie’s book but it’s always interesting to read the reviews. I didn’t know that the book came with actual patterns! Damn, Gertie’s good! My focus recently has been on lingerie so I’ve been eating up every textbook relating to the subject but once I finish that, I’m going to buy this book!
I posted this question on her site, but have not yet had an answer, so I ask you. I have her book (LOVE IT!!), but on reading it have a question. I have made jackets and coats, but have never padded a collar before (with her padding stitches), does the padding stitches show on the underside of the collar? Are they done on an inside fabric? I might have missed some important info, sorry.
Thank you for your time,
Nadine
Good question, Nadine! You may want to also check out her sew-along she led for the Colette Patterns Lady Grey, which has some good information on tailoring.
But, in my (albeit, somewhat limited–I just don’t have the patience for tailoring large scale projects) experience, the way the stitches are formed (taking a small “nip” of the fabric as you work the padding stitches) will show at least a little dimple on the underside of the collar/lapel (whatever area you’re padstitching). The thicker, spongier suiting and coatings tend to work best for traditional tailoring for this reason–along with textured fabrics (like bouclé). Smooth faced fabrics are better for applications that don’t have heavy tailoring (or use interior, hidden interfacings to give it structure).
Hope that helps a bit!
♥ Casey
Great review, thanks for the in-depth analysis. Always good to hear what another experienced sewist thinks. Sounds like a good solid overview for someone like me who’s not ready to dive into individual specialist books yet, but still detailed enough to challenge me. It will be on my Christmas list for sure.
P.S. congratulations on your baby news – looking forward to seeing what you do with maternity wear! I’m always intrigued by those kangaroo skirts in vintage patterns, but looks like they leave your tummy hanging out all alone? Perhaps that’s why you need the maternity petticoat too!
P.S. To Nadine – I read Gertie’s answer to your question yesterday, have no idea what either of you are talking about but I’m sure it will help you
I’m deeply sorry to hear about your mother, Casey, and will keep her and your family in my heart and thoughts.
♥ Jessica
Thank you so much, Jessica!
She could use the prayers for healing and good health right now. 
♥ Casey
So sorry to hear that your mum has not been well Casey….it is worrying when a parent is unwell. Sending your mum lots of get better hugs. (And big hugs to you too
)
I’m really dying to get a good look at Gerties book…. I think it looks awesome. I really want to look at the patterns
Hope your mom is ok. This book looks amazing!
I hope you are an affiliate since it is because of YOUR review and recommendation that I am going to purchase this book and no doubt many of your other loyal readers. I was inspired when I read this the wee hours of this morning. Plus, I am looking to up my sewing game.
I learned to sew from my Mom while in elementary school. Lately, since I’ve been interested in 18-early 20th century garment wearing I have developed a yearning to step up to the plate with my sewing skills. This book seems to answer the calling. Oh, and thank you ever so much for your explanation of how to draft patterns. I shared your link with some of my cyber buds and we agree . . . you are the business Ms. Casey.