30s scalloped collar tutorial pt. 2

Today we’ll cover how to sew that scalloped collar you drafted earlier! There will be a few modifications to the overall construction of the blouse itself for this variation, as you’ll want it to the point of being nearly completely sewn before attaching the collar and finishing the neckline. Follow steps 1 through 7 on the instruction sheet. Disregard steps 8 through 11 for now, and follow up through step 16. Do not sew the side seams before attaching the collar!

I found that when sewing the scallops on the outer collar piece–especially on lightweight/sheer fabrics–it is easier if I marked the seam allowance on one piece first along the scalloped edge. Here I am marking the 1/4″ seam allowance.

On the outer scallop piece, baste along the smooth edge of the collar (the edge that will be joined directly to the inner collar). Clip at regular intervals from the cut edge to just shy of the basting line (do not cut through the basting line!). Repeat for the other outer scallop piece.

Lay the edge of the outer scallop piece (printed fabric) along the outer edge of the inner collar piece (solid fabric), right sides together. Pin in place, using the notches to manipulate the outer collar piece (printed fabric) to be smoothly pinned to the inner collar curve, matching edges (close up of this step). Repeat with other collar pieces.




Stitch the inner and outer collar pieces together. Trim seam to 1/4″ and clip/notch the seam allowance to allow the seam to lay smoothly. Press the seam towards the inner collar piece. Repeat with remaining inner and outer collar pieces.




With right sides together, pin the joined collar (now referred to as upper and lower collar) together along the scalloped edge, matching edges. Slowly sew a 1/4″ seam along the scallops, carefully stitching along the marked seam line and pivoting at the inner corners.




Press collar along stitched edge to “set” stitches. Clip v-shaped notches in the scalloped edge seam allowance; this will allow the curves to turn more smoothly and lay correctly. Turn the collar right side out. Using a smooth-pointed tool (a bone or wood point turner would work, but I used a large-gauge knitting needle!), gently work the edges of the scallops smooth and press flat.

Pin together the neckline edges of the inner collar and baste.

With the blouse right sides out, pin the collar to the neckline edge, matching shoulder seams and notches.

Baste around the neckline with a 5/8″ seam. Clip a notch from the seam allowance to the basting at the center front, inner corner.




The collar is now temporarily attached to the blouse. Make sure there is no puckering around the neckline. Pin and stitch the neckline binding, as in steps 8 through 11 of the instruction sheet. The only difference will be that you open the notched center front corner as you sew, so it is straight and you do not have to pivot.




Follow the remaining steps on the instruction sheet for stitching the side seams and finishing. Give it a good press and you’re done! You could also add a ribbon bow at the neckline, or make a narrow tube of the blouse fabric and tie it into a bow (as I did on my first version), or even add a button!

Of course I would absolutely love to see your version of this collar! Feel free to drop me a line if you give it a try!

May 10, 2011 · 56 lovely thoughts
posted in sewing,tutorials · tags: , , ,

Sam May 10, 2011 at 07:03

Casey that is just so beautiful! I love the two fabric combination for the collar. I also think the button is a great idea! Sam xox

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Liz Sewmode May 10, 2011 at 07:12

Oh my god! This lovely blouse with this cute collar is so my style ! Thanks for sharing, good job !

http://www.cardiganpumpkin.blogspot.com

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Paperdoll May 10, 2011 at 07:17

Wow, thats gorgeous! Great tutorial Casey, that’s going on my list of makes! X

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Sheri May 10, 2011 at 07:36

Lovely, Casey! I’m putting this in my projects folder. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I like the button embellishment, too! :) – Hugs.

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Alli May 10, 2011 at 07:38

Such a pretty top Casey- I adore the fabric…..so quaint ;)

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Eva Girl May 10, 2011 at 07:51

Beautiful! Love the button – perfect little touch with the fabric and style of the blouse : ) Love the soft colors and the tailored lines of the blouse with the feminine details!

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Jenny May 10, 2011 at 08:04

Wow, it looks so fantastic! I agree with Eva Girl, the button’s a perfect touch!

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Annabelle May 10, 2011 at 08:41

Just gorgeous! I simply cannot wait to give it a try :)

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Christine Hand May 10, 2011 at 08:52

Casey,

While your new top is absolutely lovely, I find myself distracted by your pretty hair style! Tutorial, maybe?

Christine

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Gina May 10, 2011 at 08:53

This looks really great, The clips in sewing make such a difference. I find it hard to clip fabric, but am getting better at clipping to the seam without much fear of clipping straight through! It always makes me a little nervous though. I am coming back to this tutorial soon, it’s bookmarked. Thanks for making it!

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:32

Thank you, Gina! Sometimes I use a smaller, very sharp pair of scissors to clip seams instead of my larger shears. I have had too many instances of accidently clipping through the seam–better to be safe than sorry! ;)

♥ Casey

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Jill May 10, 2011 at 09:15

awww, so cute!!

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YarnUiPhoneApp May 10, 2011 at 09:16

I’d say some pressing during sewing can keep a lot of puckers away. There’s nothing like sewing and then finding an errant pucker. Sometimes an iron can smooth even that away. Anyhow, I want to say I love the vintage lawn fabric. It kind of reminds me of the 1930s fabric I have that I cut into a dress and botched. I still have the skirt pieces, so maybe I should try salvaging it sometime. I found my fabric in a bag with other more modern fabrics at a thrift store. If you know your vintage fabrics, those bags can be gold mines.

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:33

Thank you, MaryBeth! :) The fabric does remind me of a 30s print; at first I thought perhaps it was from the 30s, but I’m pretty sure it dates a bit later. Still, I don’t argue over pretty prints like that! lol.

Good reminder to always check out those fabric grab-bags at the thrift store! I always get preoccupied with the patterns and sometimes forget to check. hehe!

♥ Casey

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Tasha May 10, 2011 at 10:02

Oh my goodness, this version is just as wonderful as your original! I absolutely can’t wait until I can spare some time to sit down with this project. In fact it occurred to me earlier that it might be just the perfect use for my piece of Liberty lawn that a (generous!) friend gave me for my birthday. It might be just enough fabric for a sleeveless blouse like this and the print has a very 30s feel. Absolutely with a muslin first though, especially with Liberty fabric that I’m already scared to cut into, LOL!

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:35

Ooooh! Liberty fabric would be perfect for a blouse like this–especially since it doesn’t use a ton of the precious yardage! :)

♥ Casey

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fangaroni May 10, 2011 at 12:54

Beautiful blouse! Thanks so much for putting the tutorial together!

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Elizabeth May 10, 2011 at 13:00

Thank you for posting the two-part tutorial. I’ve been wanting to use scallops in garments but have been too intimidated with the curves. Looking forward to trying it out!

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:36

I’m so glad you liked this, and hopefully my instructions are clear enough so that they aren’t scary! ;) Scallops intimidated me for a bit too, but I think I finally figured them out and have been sewing a lot of scallop-details of late. :)

♥ Casey

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Olivia May 10, 2011 at 13:04

Just beautiful! I love the fabric, P.S. where do you normally go fabric shopping?
Livi

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Marie May 10, 2011 at 13:37

What an absolutely stunning second version you’ve made! I can’t thank you enough for sharing this tutorial, I will definitely be trying it and and will get in touch if my version isn’t an embarrassment ;o)

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:37

Aw… don’t feel that way about your sewing! :) I’m sure it’ll turn out gorgeous–and of course I’d love to see it! :)

♥ Casey

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MissRayne May 10, 2011 at 14:10

So pretty on you, I’ve been wanting to try a scallop edge button down dress, now I’m inspired.

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Vanessa May 10, 2011 at 14:22

This is so cool! I really wish I had a sewing machine!

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Ywea May 10, 2011 at 14:30

Beautiful blouse and tutorial:)

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Tasia May 10, 2011 at 14:30

Love it! The button is the perfect finishing touch. Thanks for sharing! :)

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jenny May 10, 2011 at 14:47

wow! This is so beautiful. You are so dope!!

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Michelle May 10, 2011 at 14:49

Super cute! I will definitely have to try this at some point though I haven’t got anything to ‘restyle’.

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Achaia May 10, 2011 at 14:55

Casey,
That blouse is adorable!! And the scalloped collar is so cute. I love the fabric you used!

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jeanine May 10, 2011 at 15:20

Gorgeous! So pretty…one of these days I’ll attempt one! Thank you for sharing your fantastic instructions!

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Corinne May 10, 2011 at 18:07

Another great blouse Casey. Your tutorial is really well done and explains the scallops so well. Lots of scallops in RTW i have noticed recently. Thanks.

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Carla May 11, 2011 at 00:57

Oh that collar came out gorgeous! When I get time from making things for comic con, I might try my hand at this :3

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Jemajo May 11, 2011 at 02:09

Thank you so much for taking the trouble to do such a clear tutorial.
I love the collar, in fact, scallops are my favorite, but I haven’t seen one in the shops for years!
Now I can make my own…and if it turns out well enough to be seen in public (!) I’ll definitely let you see it :D

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:41

So glad you enjoyed this tutorial–and of course I’d love to see what you make using scallops! :)

♥ Casey

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Isis May 11, 2011 at 03:28

Oh, I LOVE your tutorials!

And I’ve just spotlighted your blog. :)

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Miss Woody May 11, 2011 at 06:18

so lovely !!!

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Mugsy May 11, 2011 at 11:58

Wow, what a lovely top – and I’m in love with the material! :) Thank you once again for these great tutorials – I know I learn a great deal from them…

Have a fantastic day, you!

Mugsy

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Molly May 11, 2011 at 13:37

I’ll totally be giving this a try when I get a chance. I love how simple and feminine it is. Very classy!

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Mrs Amber Apple May 11, 2011 at 15:33

Oh Casey it’s lovely! Thanks for making a tutorial :-)

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Lauren May 11, 2011 at 21:22

WOW – that looks GREAT! Very retro!

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Elizabeth May 12, 2011 at 00:37

I found your blog through grosgrain today and I am so glad I did. It is fabulous!

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Tania Egan May 12, 2011 at 05:50

Beautiful! And, I love your hair!!! Any chance of a tutorial on how to achieve it? Love it!

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Casey May 12, 2011 at 11:48

I just uploaded one today!!! :) It’s here: Edwardian inspired braided side bun.

♥ Casey

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Tania Egan May 13, 2011 at 10:06

Wow! Thank you! Will be trying it out this weekend. You are a star!
Tania

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Ms Wanda May 12, 2011 at 06:06

That’s so cute! May have to give it a little try some time. x

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Nathalie May 12, 2011 at 10:44

Such a pretty neckline. I love the contrast with the white fabric.

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Marjorie May 12, 2011 at 12:22

OH pretty as punch, Casey!! And that fabric…..SWOOOON! : )

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*Katia* May 13, 2011 at 05:42

oh dear,words can do no justice to this outfit!!!! so pretty!!

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kajsa May 15, 2011 at 06:21

Oh you people with sewing skills. I adore you!

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Tilly May 15, 2011 at 09:58

Oh it looks so beautiful! That fabric is truly special.

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Ashley-Refurl May 18, 2011 at 08:04

Very nice, I HAVE to make one of these! Love that fabric too!

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Denise June 4, 2011 at 01:52

So cute and so girly!

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navinda December 4, 2011 at 11:16

Great tutorial. I adore your style

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Earline February 14, 2012 at 10:30

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