January 2011

Lauren posted about the new costume-drama series Downton Abbey recently, which caught my eye immediately. Like most fashion enthusiasts and a fan of British miniseries of this sort, I have been spending odd moments here and there all weekend getting caught up on the first three episodes. I won’t go into a whole lot of details about the plot, but suffice to say it centers around an upper class family right before the First World War, which means lots of fashion eye candy. I’ve already waxed poetic (too often probably!) about my love of women’s fashion from this era, so I’ve been completely smitten by Downton Abbey. Right now I’m coveting little shirtwaist blouses and gorgeous beading on the dinner dresses. I’ve been seriously eying this pattern in my stash (though it dates later than Downton Abbey is set), although truthfully I don’t need another project right now!

So in the spirit of the late Edwardian era, I scanned a handful of pages from a 1910s catalog fragment I have. From lacy blouses to coats with fringed lapels, the details are beautiful and inspiring…

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January 31, 2011 · 41 lovely thoughts
posted in vintage inspiration · tags: ,

01.30.11 | weekly favorites

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Did you miss the domesticity-related post on Friday? I did something that is rare for me: I decided to just take a break Friday. I have been trying to come down with a cold/allergy attack (the verdict is still out as to which it is… all I know is I feel pretty rotten!) the last couple days and just needed a break. The upside is that I have a partially-written post for next week, so I shan’t skip next Friday’s!

I wanted to include a little note for those participating in the Swing Dress sew-along. I got a couple of questions about the formula I used in the video, which was found in a source for bust adjustments that stated it could be used for an FBA or SBA. However, after sleeping on it (and a few comments), I began to suspect that this particular source was in error. As a result I put a note in the post on how to determine your correct amount of adjustment, which is a bit easier I think! My apologies if this is causing any extra work for anyone, and teaches me to not do tutorials when I have a cold and am fuzzy-headed. lol!

Enough rambling! I hope you are having a lovely weekend thus far. I am off to do a little sewing prep-work for this week’s sew-along posts; don’t want to get behind! lol.

January 30, 2011 · 12 lovely thoughts
posted in links · tags:

Alrighty! I think we’re ready to go ahead and cut out the muslin and get started fitting the dress. I’m giving us a week and a half to do this, so hopefully that will be enough time for everyone? (We’ll be finalizing things and cutting out the fashion fabric on February 7.) Again, feel free to follow at your own pace with this–I know most of us are super busy right now and have to squeeze sewing in around other things. Be sure to post photos of your muslin to the Flickr group if you’d like help with fitting; I think that will be a great way for us to critique and offer suggestions as needed.

Before you cut the muslin, here are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Final adjustments: make any remaining “pre-muslin” adjustments that we’ve covered previously on your paper pattern.
  • Seam allowance: the original pattern only allows for 1/2″ seams. If you’d like a bit of wiggle room to adjust things, I recommend increasing these to 3/4″. I usually just pin my pattern down to the fabric and pencil an additional 1/4″ around the edges.
  • Cutting out: follow the layout diagram included with the pattern for cutting out your muslin. If you’re using narrower/wider fabric, you can adjust your layout accordingly, but just remember to follow the grainlines marked on the pattern pieces!
  • Following the directions: construct your muslin as the pattern instructions specify, but don’t worry about finishing seam allowances, adding the zipper, hemming, etc. Since this is purely a dress for fitting purposes, I usually just iron and tack up hems temporarily and pin together the opening edges where the zipper will go. Also be sure to use a basting stitch when sewing your muslin up–this makes things easier to let out!
  • Marking adjustments: pinning and using a marker to mark areas that need to be adjusted are invaluable tools. I usually just pinch out excess fullness, pin and then mark the muslin once I take it off. Conversely, if you need to let a seam out, this is where the extra width comes in handy. We’ll delve more into how to transfer these fitting marks to your pattern pieces next week.
  • Design tweaks: if you’re planning for any adjustments/additions to the design, add those now to check proportion and placement. I’m planning on adding pockets and will be including those in my muslin.

01.27.11 | getting ready to cut out!

Laying out the pieces on muslin and adding an additional 1/4″ to the seams.

I am hoping to post how to sew the shoulder yoke on Monday, as well as some fitting critiques on my own muslin later in the week. So stay tuned for those! I think once we start to work on the muslin fitting stage, things will start to come together and make more sense as far as constructing certain portions of this dress. As usual, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

If you’d like to do small bust adjustment prior to cutting out your muslin, I spent some time yesterday afternoon figuring things out a bit. I came up with a fairly decent solution for this particular bodice style, although like all fitting adjustments done on paper, this does not replace the need for a fitting muslin!

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January 27, 2011 · 24 lovely thoughts
posted in sewing · tags: ,

Are we already almost at the end of January?! I can’t believe it–the month has flown by at a breakneck speed. But before the last days of January fade away, I’d like to showcase the last group of returning sponsors for this month. Please do take a moment to check each of their shops out–lots of goodies to be had!

50s blue striped cotton dress | 30s salmon pink handbag

Jill’s shop, Adeline’s Attic, always has a beautiful selection of hand-picked vintage items. From breathtaking afternoon dresses, to jaunty hats and vintage magazines. Jill has kindly extended a discount for EM readers: through January 31st, followers of get 15% off anything in the shop. To get the discount, they should use coupon code WINTERFUN at checkout.

50s advance swing coat | 30s girls’ frock

I’m in such a sewing mood right now, and have been trying my darndest not to acquire any more projects on my to-do list for the next couple of months. But Tina’s selection at her shop, What-I-Found, is so enticing and tempting… That swing coat is especially gorgeous! Be sure to check out her amazing stock of thousands of patterns!

pink baby pillbox hat | crystal cocktail hat

These two hats strike me as perfect to either brighten a late-winter outfit or wear for a special occasion (like Valentine’s Day perhaps?)! Kat is always cooking up some new hats and accessories for her shop Black Gardenia. Be sure to click through for more vintage-inspired pieces that are sure to delight any hat-wearing gal!

A big thank you to all the returning sponsors and their continued support! If you’re interested in advertising be sure to check out the sponsor information page and drop me an email.

January 27, 2011 · 5 lovely thoughts
posted in sponsors ·

Andrea’s blog, A Cat of Impossible Colour, has been one of the “staples” on my feed reader for years. She has a unique sense of style and fun with her wardrobe, crafts wonderfully writtenposts, is an expert thrifter, has traveled and lived in many different spots around the globe, has a great sense of humor, and is about to celebrate the debut of her first novel in a few short weeks. I’m always in utter awe of how much she manages to get done and her passion for writing and way with words, not to mention envying her wardrobe! Andrea is also one of the few people I know who has been very honest about the tedious and sometime discouraging process that writing, editing and seeking to have a book published can be, which she has written about at length on her blog. I am utterly delighted that I was able to interview her and chat a bit about writing (and fashion)–right in time for the February 10 launch of The Cry of the Go-Away Bird (also available from Amazon Canada), which is inspired by her experiences growing up in Zimbabwe. Thank you again, Andrea!

Could you tell us a little about yourself and your background?

Well, I’m 25, and I was born in England, grew up in Zimbabwe, moved to New Zealand when I was 17 and lived there until this year, when I moved to Austin, Texas with my husband and black cat, Mink! I have quite a strange accent, as you can imagine. I also have dreadful eyesight which I make worse by reading under the bedclothes, and my cat is plotting to take over the world (I think).

What was it like living in Africa? What do you miss most about it?

It was vivid, colourful, dark, terrifying and wonderful, all at the same time. I love Zimbabwe and it will always be the landscape of my heart. The things I miss most change daily. Today I miss avocadoes fresh from our tree, the sound of cane rats running through the long grass in our garden, and the smell of the citronella-infused cream we wore in the evenings to keep mosquitoes away. Writing The Cry of the Go-Away Bird was therefore both joyful and heart-wrenching, often simultaneously.

You recently moved from New Zealand to Texas; how are you liking your new home in Austin? I hope you’re all settled now! You have seen a lot of different parts of the world; what have been some of your favorite spots and dream trips?

I love Austin! It is such a fun, free sort of city, filled with interesting people. And I love the heat, after eight freezing New Zealand winters. I am a bit of a useless travel agent, though, as I love absolutely everywhere I have been and lived and couldn’t possibly choose a favourite. The UK, Zimbabwe and New Zealand are, of course, very special to me – and Paris holds a particular place in my heart, since I have been there often and my husband proposed to me there. I would love to go to Mexico and I have always wanted to visit the Antarctic – I even applied for a job on Scott Base once!

What inspired you to be a writer? Is this something you’ve been passionate about all your life? What are your earliest literary-memories?

I have wanted to be a writer since I knew what a story was, and have vivid recollections of writing long, rambling stories in clumsy pencil when I was six! I ‘published’ them, too, designing covers and writing ‘Unicorn Press’ or ‘Black Cat Publishing’ (couldn’t decide) laboriously on the back of each one.

Your experiences as a child in Zimbabwe have really influenced your first book; do you find that is the case with a lot of your writing: that events in your life (or observations of others) tend to contribute to or influence your writing?

I think of myself as a sort of compost heap (bear with me; this starts making sense soon): all the detritus of my life experiences is shovelled into a pile, where it sits and ferments for a while. And eventually it turns into something useful and nutritious. For me, this is where my stories come from. I think many writers have the same experience.

Do you have any tips for those reading this who are looking to pursue a career as a writer? I know the idea of finding a publisher and the endless stream of initial rejections and revisions for a manuscript can be daunting! How did you keep your eyes on the prize and keep moving forward without getting discouraged?

It can be very discouraging! The best advice I can give is to make your book the best it can possibly be, however arduous and heartbreaking the process and then to be very, very (very) persistent … however arduous and heartbreaking the process. And be bloody-minded. You will hear an awful lot of ‘no’, but it only takes one ‘yes.’

Blogging has played a big part in your life–do you think it’s really helped with your writing career as well?

Yes! Blogging provided a community of likeminded, talented and supportive people (like you, Casey!) whom I would never have met otherwise. Writing is a lonely activity. Without these online friends to chat to during the good days and bad, I don’t know how my journey would have been. A lot harder, I know that. Blogging also gave me the opportunity to follow the stories of other women who were pursuing their dreams, creative or otherwise, and I found (find) that very inspiring.

You also have a keen sense of style and work a lot of thrifted items into your wardrobe. Have you always been interested in fashion?

You know, I really haven’t. I did enjoy dressing up my Barbie dolls when I was younger (and still do enjoy playing with dolls, if I’m honest), but I never had much interest in dressing myself. I wore whatever my mother bought for me, basically, and was a raging tomboy until the age of sixteen. If you could ride a horse and climb a tree in it comfortably, I wore it. I only started to see the possibilities of self-expression through clothing in my late teens, when I became the kid-who-dressed-weirdly. I always liked to experiment, successfully or not, and I started thrift-shopping – fairly indiscriminately, at first! There was the year of many ponchos; the year of corsets and leather gloves; and the year of tie-dyed bell-bottoms. It is only in the last three years that I have become comfortable with my style and discovered a love of vintage clothing.

Any tips for would-be (or even seasoned!) thrifters? How do you manage to find some many amazing pieces?

I don’t have any magical powers or close-guarded secrets to share, but I do think that you need to be persistent and patient. Go often and rummage thoroughly – that’s the best way to uncover treasures. I did write a series of detailed posts on thrifting, as well, which you can find here:

I’m sure you get this question a lot, but how do you think that writing (seen as more cerebral) and fashion (often perceived as artistic) influence each other? Or is there even a connection for you?

I am a very visual person, and a very visual writer – imagery is important to me. No matter how vivid your writing, however, at some level it will always be black words on a white page. Vintage fashion gives me an outlet through which I can express my love of colour, pattern and form, just as painting or designing would for someone who possesses greater artistic skills than mine! (Which are pretty meagre, despite my high school dreams of Fine Arts school). Wearing something creative makes me feel and be more creative.

Take us through a typical day for you: what keeps you motivated and going?

Coffee! That’s the short answer. I drink three cups in the morning to get going. Otherwise, I have learned that the best source of motivation is simply sitting down and working for a set period of time, no matter what your mood or energy level. I am also a passionate advocate of naps – I have a nap in all of my lunch breaks, and it keeps me sane and refreshed for the afternoon’s work.

Finally: do you have anything special planned to commemorate your first book launch?

Well, my husband and I are flying over to the UK in February, so I will be participating in a few events surrounding the launch of the book – I’ll be announcing details on my blog as each is confirmed. Apart from that, though, I anticipate a celebratory dinner involving a great deal of sparkling wine, and a thrifting trip! I have a tradition of buying a new-to-me vintage dress to commemorate every important event in my life. For a while I was buying a lot of ‘rejection-from-agent/publisher’ dresses. It will be a thrill to buy a ‘book-launch’ dress.

Inspiring Interviews is an occasional feature in which I chat with creative individuals about their particular niche and what inspires them. Be sure to check out the others individuals featured in the past!

January 26, 2011 · 20 lovely thoughts
posted in inspiring interviews ·