If you follow my Flickr, you may have seen a couple of muslin photos pop up recently for the Lady Grey jacket. Gertie concocted the idea to host a sew-along for the Lady Grey pattern, and since she’s also going over basic tailoring (top on my list of things to master more fully in 2011!) I decided to participate. Not that I really needed to add another jacket to my closet… goodness knows I already have too many!
My progress has been deplorably slow, mostly due to being tied up in other projects; I finally finished fitting my muslin last weekend. I had to do a few tweaks on the pattern to get a good fit. Namely the armholes, which I found far too high and pinching; I ended up increasing the depth of the curve (along the lower front, bottom and back edge) about 3/4″. I also had to take in the fullness of the peplum a bit. I cut out one size of the pattern through the bust and waist, and the next size up for the hips. While the center back portion of the peplum is perfect at the larger size, it was creating unsightly folds through the sides and front. So I shaved a bit off there. I also reduced the lapel and collar size–which I was a bit surprised that I had to do! I don’t consider myself petite or small at all, but the lapels (already large for a dramatic silhouette) completely overwhelmed me. About 1/4″ was skimmed off there, as well as the collar to keep things proportionate. Finally, I remembered to pick up some shoulder pads (which I had totally forgotten–I don’t know how!) and that helped loads with some of the wrinkling along the upper back.
The initial muslin, prior to making final adjustments. see the back here
Prior to picking apart the muslin to use the pieces as cutting templates, I marked the roll lines for tailoring on the lapels and collar.
Once past all the fitting, I trimmed the muslin seams down to a uniform 5/8″ (same as the pattern; I had used a 1″ seam on the muslin for fitting purposes), and used that in conjunction with the pattern pieces I didn’t alter or need to fit to cut out my wool. The wool I’m using is a lightweight gabardine in a striking bright turquoise. I usually am so Northeast and gravitate towards coats and jackets in more staid colors like gray and black. This color definitely doesn’t hide in a crowd–paired with the bubblegum pink lining this is a coat that has been influenced by all the color I’ve seen since moving to Florida (flamingos and crystal clear water!). It’s a light enough fabric to wear here into the winter, but will also work as a fantastic spring jacket if we move back north. (For those curious, I did pre-shrink my wool yardage at home referencing this method.) I didn’t buy buttons for this project, but am making them–of which I hope to post a bit more about soon-ish!
Button making progress!
I started cutting out all the wool yesterday evening and am now super excited to see how this comes together. I’ve been feeling kind of apathetic about several of the sewing projects I have going on right now, so it’s nice that this project has reignited my enthusiasm a bit (instead of wishing I was sewing one of the four or so dresses I’m dying to make!). Up next: bound buttonholes. Gertie posted a tutorial on how to do them the traditional way, but I think I’m going to pull out my trusty vintage Dritz bound buttonhole tool instead…
Wow! I’m so impressed by the things you’ve learned. And, those buttons looks so cute!
Mom
Great progress! I’d love to know your process for making those pretty buttons…I was planning on making self cover buttons for my Lady Grey as well, but just by using a Dritz covered button kit. Though now I fear they may not be sturdy enough for my thick wool coat. Yours look gorgeous though and remind me of the buttons on all my 40s suits and coats!
Thank you, Erin!
I”m hoping to do a little tutorial next week on how I did the buttons–it’s super simple. Depending on how heavy your fabric is, I dare say you could always use a bit of the lining perhaps? Anyway, keep your eyes open for the tutorial soon!
I have a wool dress coat in about the same vibrant shade of turquoise! It’s colloquially known as The Most Beautiful Coat in the World, so I’m confident yours will look amazing too!
oh! and i love your button!
This is going to be fantastic! Can’t wait to see the finished piece. Also, classy new layout for your blog/site!
Sounds like a fabulous color combo. I can’t wait to see the finished coat!
Gosh, I learned tons about interfacing, etc. at a Vogue Fabrics sewing demo (free!) last night. I videotaped the whole thing…it’s too long to upload at the moment, but when I do get it up finally, I’ll let you. Great tips…for me too when I get around to making a jacket again….
I meant to say I’ll let you *know.*
Oh! Please do let me know–I’d love to watch it (and share the link!
. I’m hoping this won’t be my only tailoring project in the near future; I have schemes on investigating making a 1950s tailored suit next year…
I can’t wait to see your version! That turquoise looks pretty incredible.
The turquoise will be incredible. Can’t wait to see it.
I’m hoping the wide lapels and collar will suit me. I’m 5’8″ and not small so I think they’ll be okay…
I’m a good 2 1/2″ shorter than you, so I think the lapel widths will suit a taller figure much better.
It’s looking great! Your buttons are fab; I can’t wait for the tutorial.
I thought about doing the sew-along, but like you, I have waaaay too many coats and jackets already. Not to mention all of the projects I have in the works. It is a gorgeous design though. Good Luck!
I love the new look for the blog BTW. Nice.
I have a suggestion for your next project. And to help you further postpone those few projects you aren’t jazzed about. CIRCLE SKIRT SEW ALONG! CIRCLE SKIRT SEW ALONG!! Can you hear me chanting this all the way from the west?
hehe! I shall definitely keep that in mind… Although after this coat I promised Sailor Husband I’d start on the sorely needed slip cover for our sofa… (If nothing else, it needs to be done before the in-laws come to visit over the holidays!) But I’ll start figuring out the details and a time frame for that–because I’d love to do it while it’s cooler weather!
I’m with you- I’m going to use the buttonhole tool. Expect a phone call if I don’t 100% remember everything you so graciously showed me
I love your buttons, I can’t wait to see what you write about those. I’d love to make some like that. I’m using a couple of sparkly vintage ones from the stash but I like yours a lot too.
I just finished doing my bound buttonholes on the gabardine with the Dritz tool–and they came out so crisp! A tip for you while you’re doing yours: whipstitch the “lips” of the bound buttonhole edges together before pressing the finished buttonhole after construction. It really helps keep things neat and tidy.
(I just used silk thread, since it doesn’t leave any marks from pressing.)
Also: have you seen Sarai’s step-by-step tutorial on using the Dritz tool? I tend to refer to that from time to time to “refresh” my memory!
All I can say is “you are making wonderful progress”. I’m taking part in the sew along too, but I’ve been suffering from sewing paralyze for about two weeks now. But I have got to get this thing cut out this week. I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your buttons and look forward with much anticipation to your tutorial. I just might have to copy those!
Looks great so far! I need to cut out my fabric now and get on with everyone else. I love your button and the color of your coat is beautiful!
I love that you are wearing your jacket all drawn with the pattern on it and all. so adorable. I can’t wait to see the final product!
Hey, I had the thing about the armholes too. I think you can see, if you look, that the sleeve needs to be rotated forwards. That, and raising the sleeve cap height, took away ALL my sleeve wrinkles and made the coat much more comfortable! Beautiful buttonholes, btw.