[ gathering the necessary supplies! ]
Some may remember one of my 2010 resolutions was to learn how to make hats; I’ve had some experience with blocking felt hats, but wanted to learn more about the art of hatmaking. Mostly because I’ve spent years drooling over unobtainable vintage hats (whether due to price or the wrong head size), and would love to be able to have a small selection of vintage-influenced styles to wear when the mood strikes! I have finally (happily) gotten started on this project, and have spent weeks poring over From the Neck Up (recommended by my friend Jenny Rose who is a hatmaking genius and got me started on this idea of making hats!), and recently ordered some supplies. I bought a basic hatmaking kit as well as some other odds and ends from Judith M, which I can’t recommend enough for prompt and quick shipping.
[ various inspirations I gathered up and my final hat design sketch. ]
I decided for my first hat to make a straw 40s style “tilt” hat. It’s a non-head size hat, meaning that the opening is not meant to fit over my head and is smaller than my head measurement. It’s meant to perch atop and can be tilted forward a bit. I’m not copying any one hat, but rather compiling a few influences into one hat design. For those wondering where I got the hat straw: I bought an inexpensive hat from Marshall’s (one of those department store discount places) and took it apart. It’s actually a paper braid, rather than straw proper. Yes, it was tedious to rip out all the rows of braiding, but considering millinery straw is both hard to find and often pricey, I was willing to put in a little hard work.
I spent some time the other evening working on patterning the hat, making up a paper mockup, cutting out the structure layer in buckram (since the braid I’m working with is soft, I opted to use a buckram frame as a base per instructions found in From the Neck Up), and sewing the wire to the edges and putting together the crown. (Below are pictures of the various steps.)
[ the paper mock up of the hat pattern to test for size and shape. ]
[ experimenting with the idea of adding a "crescent bandeau" (the small support) at the back to increase the tilt a bit. ]
[ tracing the pattern onto and cutting out the buckram layers. ]
[ stitching together the tip (top piece) and sideband to form the crown. be sure to click on this for more details! ]
I have actually finished covering the under brim piece with straw. I decided to do the brim in two layers–one for the top and the other for the bottom (or side that is towards the wearer’s face)–mostly because I’d like the extra structure to the brim. Lynn McMasters has a great article on straw hatmaking and using the doubled brim in her “articles” section (scroll down to “Making Straw Braid Hats”). Stitching the braid isn’t very hard at all–just a bit tedious and wearing on the hands if done in long stretches. In retrospect, making a hat covered with fabric would have been an easier (and quicker) first project. But considering I rarely pick the easy route with projects (mostly because I don’t always think things through before jumping in–yikes!) it’s been a good learning process. Once the basic pieces are covered, I can stitch things together into the complete hat, line the crown (just to make things neat and tidy inside) and attach the ribbon trim and ties I plan on adding. I’m hoping to have this done in the next week–I want to wear my straw hat before it gets too season-inappropriate!
August 12, 2010 ·
18 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,creativity
· tags: hatmaking
[ trying out a "new" vintage sewing tool! ]
Coming across vintage sewing tools can cause one of two reactions: the head-scratching “what the heck is this?!” moment, or the complete epiphany as to the genius of earlier generations of sewing tool manufacturers. (And subsequent wondering why they don’t make such handy tools any more!) I recently have come across a couple sewing tools of the vintage variety that I thought I’d share one with you!
A recent acquisition: the “Tack-It”! A friend of mine mentioned this odd-looking tool, but I realized it’s genius when I thought of all the times I could have used an easier method to mark fabric than my usual pin or tailors tacks (which, I have a nasty habit of accidentally pulling out halfway through the project, voiding all my hard work). I found one on Ebay recently for quite a deal and have had fun playing with it and trying it out since.
[ preparing to mark the fabric. ]
It’s easy to use, although I think I need to replace the transfer paper it came with in it’s original packaging, as it’s a bit old. But basically you cut out the pattern piece leaving most of it still pinned to the fabric, and slip the transfer sheet between the pattern and top layer of fabric, and under the bottom layer (creating a “sandwich” of the fabric in the middle, transfer paper around, and pattern on top) if you’re cutting out two layers. Slip the Tack-It over top a marking, and press down firmly–and it’s marked! No more worrying about loosing my thread tacks anymore… lol.
[ final marks. the dots were a bit hard to capture--so be sure to enlarge the image a bit! ]
Lately, sewing has been a bit touch and go for me. I think I’m just hitting the end-of-summer-blues and needing a bit of a breather after the amount of sewing I’ve done this year. I’ve been getting a huge amount of knitting done and the millinery supplies I ordered from Judith M arrived yesterday–so something fun to start playing with! Though I did cut out the bra top portion of my 40s swimsuit over the weekend (the shorts are still giving me some fitting issues and I ran out of muslin, so they’re on hold until I procure more!), so hopefully I’ll actually sew instead of talking about it and posting vintage sewing tools… lol!
So tell me: what’s your favorite sewing tool? Or what creative things have been filling your imagination so far this month?
August 10, 2010 ·
13 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,sewing
· tags: vintage sewing
I’m back to subject you to some more scans from that 1944 catalog this morning! (Are you getting bored of these yet? I admit, when I tend to be excited about something, I go a little overboard… lol.) This time it’s the thing that makes my heart go pitter-patter: shoes! I’m not always a huge fan of 40s shoe styles; some just aren’t flattering to my legs. But there are many styles that I’d still love to own if they were still available. Of course, modern reproduction companies like Remix make it mighty easy to have those perfect 40s shoes! I’m still drooling over (and saving my pennies for!) a pair of Rita bow-pumps. One day they’ll be mine (definitely going on my Christmas wishlist. Now just to decide on a color…)! Enjoy this post!
I like the pair at the top right best, which were available in
two different heel heights! They don’t really offer that sort of variety very often any more. I dare say I’d opt for the higher ones, even back in 1944–although 2-5/8″ high isn’t terribly tall compared to some of the shoes in my closet! (I tend to be in the 4″ to 5″ range…)
Spectator wedges!!!
I really love the ankle strap sandals (top right)–so cute!
Of course, what shoe post would be complete without stockings? I’m a bit of a hedonist when it comes to wearing stockings and usually ditch them except for occasions that call for it and the coldest months. But I have a few pairs of vintage stockings that a lovely reader sent me last year that I’m dying to break out and wear–once the weather cools down! I rather love how 40s artists idealized the model’s legs in these drawings; mostly because I have muscular calves too! lol.
August 9, 2010 ·
20 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,vintage inspiration
· tags: 1940s, vintage inspiration
I was planning on posting an update about the small amount of progress I’ve made on my swimsuit this week. But I hit a snag, and frankly had to put the darn thing aside before I got too cranky at it. Hopefully twenty-four hours away from it will give me some perspective. So instead, here are some scans from 1950 that I thought you might enjoy… Just to round out your week a bit–and hopefully offer a bit of visual inspiration to kick start your weekend with!
[ fabrics inspired by South Pacific*--how cute are they?! ]
[ I'm in love with not only the amazing color of this suit, but the equally stunning design treatment on the shoulders and pockets. ]
[ a seriously sweet checked dress--I just love the neckline! ]
[ I've been a bit "meh" about black flats lately (even though, honestly, my wardrobe could stand a pair). too bad these aren't available--I'd snatch them up in a heartbeat! ]
[ another cute South Pacific inspired fabric. isn't the sailor print too adorable?! ]
*Admittedly, I have never seen South Pacific –perhaps I need to swing by the library to pick it up to add to my stack of movies to watch? Have a lovely weekend, friends!
August 6, 2010 ·
24 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,vintage inspiration
· tags: 1950s, vintage inspiration
