my sewing madness grows…
[ how I've been spending my free time. ]
Sewing my own 1940s bra may sound a little obsessive to some–like I’ve finally gone over the edge. But as someone who used to make my own historical undergarments back in the day, it doesn’t seem quite so out of the ordinary. Why am I doing this? Because I have an insatiable curiosity about how garments go together: construction and shape. Since my interest extends far beyond outerwear, it seemed like a good time to give this project a try! Since several of you have requested I start posting more of the “process” of my projects, I thought I’d let you in on how this one is going (despite my irrational fear of jinxing myself by posting a half-way finished project! lol).
[ a better view of some of the fitting. ]
Lauren recently listed a .pdf 40s bra pattern in her shop, and as soon as I saw it I had to give it a try! It’s taken me a long time to tackle this project, because like most early undergarments, this one has been plagued by fitting issues. However, through sheer perseverance and studying whatever I can find on bras of the period, it’s starting to shape up (no pun intended). The instructions with the original pattern are sparse, so Lauren has helpfully provided additional material to understand a bit more about construction. One thing I have discovered about 40s bras through cursory research is that they are very primitive in comparison to today’s bra offerings. Things like cup-sizing, underwire, adjustable straps, etc. that we take for granted, were not always commonplace (especially underwire during the war). I have also had to sleuth a bit about what areas to reinforce for greater support. So far, I’ve added an additional layer of fabric on the bottom of the cups (quilted together), and at the front band. This seems to have done a great deal to enhance the supportive qualities of the bra, without adding unnecessary bulk.
The greatest challenge has been fitting: the pattern, though marked a 32″, is quite large, and I’ve had to adjust the overall length of the band to reduce it to the proper fit (and allow for a slight gap in the back where the elastic band will be). The cups have also been an adventure, as this bra is not marked with any specific sizing. I’ve had to rework those a bit to fit my smallish bust (no surprise here; just about every historical undergarment I’ve made has to be adjusted here). So I’d say the bra was best for a C cup-size. I have been fitting the cups by pinning out the excess fullness, just as I would in fitting any other garment pattern, with an eye towards the fact that little ease is needed at all in a bra.
So now I have gotten to the point of needing to cut out a third (and hopefully final) muslin. I’m using a sturdy cotton (about “quilting weight” in today’s terms), as I found that many bras of the era were not only made from rayon satin but broadcloth (typically cotton) as well. A precursor to our comfortable, modern cotton jersey bras, I suppose! If all goes well, I have a vintage nightgown that I’m going to use to create a satin bra (the nightgown has some moth holes, so it’s basically useless). I’ll let you know how the adventure progresses!
p.s. Here are some ads and other images that I scanned from some of my mid 40s magazines… just in case you’re obsessive like me!
[ click for a larger view. ]
[ click for a larger view. ]
[ click for a larger view. ]
[ click for a larger view. ]
Posted on February 2nd, 2010 to sewing.
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fashion in film: the women »27 lovely thoughts to “my sewing madness grows…”
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Jill says:
You are officially my hero! This is just wonderful! WOW. Also love the vintage ads. Just brilliant!
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Peter says:
Wow. Good for you! A great challenge to take on. I’m going to be making some Forties-style boxers from a vintage pattern pretty soon, but I doubt their going to be as difficult….or that the final results will leave me “radiant as a ruby.” Great post!
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Marmielu says:
Oh wow! I can’t wait to see this! This is so cool! Ha! That would be a project when I come down. (Of course, we’d never get time to do anything else, so forget it!)
Love,
Mom -
Ann says:
I can’t believe you’re doing this! You have no fear, do you? Seriously, I think this is awesome, and I can’t wait to see how it turns out. Are you interested in doing other lingerie?
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Mugsy says:
Can’t wait for the final result! Been considering trying this myself, but being “short-changed” in that area (wink, wink, nudge, nudge), I’ve been hesitant – heck, I’ve procrastinated like crazy! I’ll be checking out the pattern for sure…Got some slip patterns that need resizing, and I want to try them too.
@ your last post (Feb. 1st), spen the weekend flipping through a book on millinery, and researching Celiac Disease – that was the final diagnosis. So, a change in diet (no Gluten for life), and I should be on my way to a healthier me. Especially considering the cost of Gluten-free goodies (yikes!)Take care!
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Kristina says:
This is awesome. I sat down at the computer all bleary eyed and grumpy about having to drag myself to work. I figure you’re page will cheer me up a bit.
I’m face to screen with a bra. Boy did that pop my eyes open. Lol.
This is a great idea. I’d never ever thought about making my own but what a wonderful idea!
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Stephanie says:
What a challenge! I’m excited to see how you are getting on…
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nancy says:
Casey, you are something else! I can’t wait to see the finished product, and I’ve never sewn on satin so I’m interested to hear what that process is like.
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Gertie says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 10:00 am
Oooh, how exciting! I’ve been eyeing bra patterns myself lately, so I can’t wait to see how this goes for you. Your top stitching on the cups is perfection. BTW, have you seen the 40s bra that What Katie Did makes? I’ll send you the link.
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Jenny-Rose says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 10:25 am
What a great project! Good for you not listening to the fears and jumping straight in – I can’t wait to see the results!
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Amy says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 10:43 am
What a terrific idea! It’s looking great so far.
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Lizzy says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 11:19 am
Wow, you sure have some amazing sewing skills. This looks like a really tricky project. I guess I never really thought about how much work went into making a bra, I guess why even modern ones are so expensive.
Hope it ends up turning out exactly like you want so that your work is all worth it! -
Lauren says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 11:56 am
Oh, wow! I am so excited to see this! Every day when I think of sewing something I think “I really should make a sample of that bra pattern” and you’ve beat me to it!
I love all the research you have done on this. Seeing all the pics really concretes how they were supposed to look in my brain, and what interesting detailwork on those ads!
Fabulous job quilting the cups. It’s just like originals I’ve seen!
Thanks so much for posting this, Casey! You’ve really inspired me! Unfortunately I doubt I’ll be making one for myself now, though… my lowly cup size would be quite a challenge to redraft… haha. -
ashley says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 12:15 pm
hey there…what an ambitious idea! If I had a glass, I’d raise it to you. Keep us posted.
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Sally says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 12:25 pm
Wow, lady, now THAT is dedication!
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Majorie says:
February 2nd, 2010 at 12:43 pm
Oh! What fun!! It looks lovely, even in it’s muslin form!
I have always wanted to make a set of 30′s or 40′s undies….tap pants and a bralette….now you have me dreaming of more sewing!! tee hee!! I love your idea of using an old nightgown for the project, too! Happy Sewing!
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jen says:
Ooh, I am most impressed Casey! I don’t think I’d every try a bra, but now, I’m thinking about it. Once we get settled in Australia!
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Mel says:
Wow it looks great! Can’t wait to see the finished product! I can barely wear modern bras let alone vintage-style ones…though I’d love to try making some other vintage-inspired lingerie, maybe slips or something.
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Quincy says:
oh my gosh! I love this Casey!
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Marianne says:
Wow, this looks great so far, can’t wait to see it finished. I love those ’40s bras.
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Kate in Belgrade says:
This is very interesting–to see how it comes together, and to learn about how bras used to be. I am an OK seamstress for dresses, but I would have no idea how to do this project, so it’s very enjoyable to hear you speak about how it’s actually done. Also I like hearing how Lauren’s patterns are to work with–I love her work and her blog.
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Maggie says:
Yay! I saw that pattern on Lauren’s site, and was so intrigued. I can’t wait to see the finished product!
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Francy says:
You’re such an amazing sewer! I think this is a fantastic idea, as I love vintage lingerie. Good luck. Show us what the final product looks like!
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DailyDivaDish says:
February 3rd, 2010 at 10:40 am
Wow! If I’m able to properly sew a missing button back on
a jacket – I’m proud of myself. You’ve got some crazy-good
skills. Amazing!
XO Piper -
Paige says:
It’s funny that you mention having trouble with cup sizes in vintage clothing, because I’m feeling your pain right now. I bought a slip recently, and I don’t know if everybody just had huge chests back in the day or what, but I have to do major overhaul. It fits the rest of my body, just not the girls…
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Laura says:
That’s fabulous. I’ve long admired the vintage-style bras at What Katie Did, but I never thought of making my own. I might actually have to try out that pattern! Can’t wait to see your results! (Your quilting on the lower cup is great, BTW — reminds me of a bra in “Everyday Fashions of the 1940s.”)
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Erika says:
Your skill and dedication just continues to amaze me! I’ve understood that bra’s in the 40s were a far cry from our modern ones, it will be interesting to see how the wear of your vintage-sewn actually compares to modern ones. In other words, if it was the construcion or the fit that made the 40s bra’s less supportive.
Thank you for sharing! I just love your on-going-project posts =)
Thank you ever so much for taking time to share your comment! Although I try to answer questions, I am not always able to respond to each comment individually. But please know that I appreciate from the bottom of my heart every comment I receive!