my sewing madness grows…

[ how I've been spending my free time. ]

Sewing my own 1940s bra may sound a little obsessive to some–like I’ve finally gone over the edge. But as someone who used to make my own historical undergarments back in the day, it doesn’t seem quite so out of the ordinary. Why am I doing this? Because I have an insatiable curiosity about how garments go together: construction and shape. Since my interest extends far beyond outerwear, it seemed like a good time to give this project a try! Since several of you have requested I start posting more of the “process” of my projects, I thought I’d let you in on how this one is going (despite my irrational fear of jinxing myself by posting a half-way finished project! lol).

[ a better view of some of the fitting. ]

Lauren recently listed a .pdf 40s bra pattern in her shop, and as soon as I saw it I had to give it a try! It’s taken me a long time to tackle this project, because like most early undergarments, this one has been plagued by fitting issues. However, through sheer perseverance and studying whatever I can find on bras of the period, it’s starting to shape up (no pun intended). The instructions with the original pattern are sparse, so Lauren has helpfully provided additional material to understand a bit more about construction. One thing I have discovered about 40s bras through cursory research is that they are very primitive in comparison to today’s bra offerings. Things like cup-sizing, underwire, adjustable straps, etc. that we take for granted, were not always commonplace (especially underwire during the war). I have also had to sleuth a bit about what areas to reinforce for greater support. So far, I’ve added an additional layer of fabric on the bottom of the cups (quilted together), and at the front band. This seems to have done a great deal to enhance the supportive qualities of the bra, without adding unnecessary bulk.

The greatest challenge has been fitting: the pattern, though marked a 32″, is quite large, and I’ve had to adjust the overall length of the band to reduce it to the proper fit (and allow for a slight gap in the back where the elastic band will be). The cups have also been an adventure, as this bra is not marked with any specific sizing. I’ve had to rework those a bit to fit my smallish bust (no surprise here; just about every historical undergarment I’ve made has to be adjusted here). So I’d say the bra was best for a C cup-size. I have been fitting the cups by pinning out the excess fullness, just as I would in fitting any other garment pattern, with an eye towards the fact that little ease is needed at all in a bra.

So now I have gotten to the point of needing to cut out a third (and hopefully final) muslin. I’m using a sturdy cotton (about “quilting weight” in today’s terms), as I found that many bras of the era were not only made from rayon satin but broadcloth (typically cotton) as well. A precursor to our comfortable, modern cotton jersey bras, I suppose! If all goes well, I have a vintage nightgown that I’m going to use to create a satin bra (the nightgown has some moth holes, so it’s basically useless). I’ll let you know how the adventure progresses!

p.s. Here are some ads and other images that I scanned from some of my mid 40s magazines… just in case you’re obsessive like me!

[ click for a larger view. ]

[ click for a larger view. ]

[ click for a larger view. ]

[ click for a larger view. ]

February 2, 2010 · 27 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,sewing · tags: 2010 sewing, sewing