I’m so excited to finally being posting this series; it’s something I’ve been knocking around in my head for awhile and resulted in writing countless draft versions, but never being quite sure how I wanted to organize it! I get at least a couple emails every week asking for advice or help with sewing. So many gals are curious about learning to sew, what my background on sewing is, and how to get started; I knew this was the perfect topic to blog about! Every week for the next three weeks, I’ll be posting an installment of this series. I’ll be going over resources, tools, favorite books, inspiration and my sewing background. Whether you’re itching to start sewing for the first time or someone more experienced and just enjoy reading anything about sewing (that would be me!), I hope you enjoy these posts…
[ some past projects (l to r): costume based on J.W. Waterhouse's painting of "Ophelia", black voile summer dress, 1830s style day gown. ]
Sewing Memories, Philosophy & Inspiration
I’ve been sewing (or wanting to sew!) for as long as I can remember; as a child I used to raid Mom’s scrap bag to sew garments for my Barbies (all of a very Victorian nature; I continually check a book from the library on drafting Victorian style clothes for dolls…). She used to sew quite a bit herself, and made many cute outfits for my sister and I! It wasn’t until I was older, around 10, that she allowed me to use her sewing machine and showed me the basics using a little book on sewing for kids. I made a few, small projects, and then moved onto clothes–my real interest in the sewing world.
[ drafting a skirt sloper back in 2006. ]
I also dabbled a lot with pattern drafting, even as a child. We would make weekly trips to the public library, and I would raid their sewing books, many of which were books from the 1970s hippie, diy movement. They had such a carefree, you-can-make-this! attitude that engaged my young imagination and I started figuring out how to draft patterns from my dolls and myself. I continued just dabbling in sewing and drafting until I was a teenager. Around that time I stumbled on Jennie Chancey’s Sense and Sensibilty pattern line, and was enchanted that there were other women interested in old-fashioned styles and actually making and wearing them. I became quite active on the forums and made friends with many of the historic costumers (including my dear friend Jenny Rose). I learned a lot from these ladies, and started doing my own costumes and learning the value of researching your projects.
During my last “semester” of high school (I was schooled at home, so we didn’t really follow the normal school year or grade system), I had the opportunity to intern with Jennie Chancey for a month. I went to stay with her, and helped around the house and with the children in exchange for her teaching me some of the tricks of the trade. I learned quite a bit about drafting, sewing and designing clothes from Jennie; we spent many, many hours talking about fashion and the resurgence of the retro look (this was in 2003, right around the time the “vintage” resurgence were starting to make a big splash on the runways again). Jennie shared with me many of her antique and vintage sewing books, as well as her incredible vintage pattern collection! (I credit her with really starting the “pattern collector” bug in me!) She was one of the first people outside of my family to encourage me to start a sewing business. A dream that I have kept close to my heart over the years (and am working towards finally making a reality)!
[ my sewing space, March 2007. ]
Since then, I have continued to work on my skills, take a few classes at a local sewing store (mostly on seam finishes and inserting zippers!), and read a lot. I’ve read books on everything from overviews of fashion history, to sewing manuals (yes, I have read The Vogue Book of Sewing cover to cover; no joke), to dry textbooks on drafting and pattern manipulation. In that respect, I am very much self taught and my sewing skills have developed in a very organic manner over time. The books I remember reading on sewing during my childhood really encouraged the idea of “just doing it” if you had a true passion for the craft. In my eyes, there is no right or wrong way, and every project has the potential to teach you something!
My sewing has varied over the years. I started out making clothes for myself, veered off into historic costumes for most of my teen years, and then back to the various facets of sewing “every day” clothes for myself. I have definitely taken a turn back towards the costume side of things with my interest in vintage patterns and styles of the 1930s through 1950s. For me, sewing offers not only a pleasant hobby, the ability to get the style and fit I want, but also allows me to cater to my more theatrical sensibilities in dress. Looking back on my experiences at sewing, I often wonder where it will take me next!
[ a page from my inspiration notebook, March 2008. ]
I believe encouraging everyone who expresses an interest in sewing to jump in with both feet; total immersion learning if you will! Even if you take a sewing class, make sure you branch out as you feel ready. Want to try making something more complicated than a pillow case or tote bag at first? Surround yourself with lots of resources (and maybe a helping hand!) and just go! Sewing is not brain surgery and I firmly believe should not be treated as such. Although I have a deep respect for the tradition of sewing and time-honored techniques, nothing delights me more than to see a curious person strike out on their own to try an idea or technique that excites them. There is no one way to learn how to sew, and even many sewing techniques have multiple ways of achieving the same end, so finding a way that makes the best sense to you is easy.
[ technical sketches and a draft-in-progress; july 2008. ]
Keeping my inspiration banks filled is a huge part of my sewing as well; even though most of the time it’s a rather passive activity that involves books or my computer. Being inspired by past eras, fashion designers, and photos helps give me new ideas and new techniques to try! I keep a notebook handy, and give myself downtime in the evenings if I want to just browse my massive “inspiration” folder on my computer. You never know where your next sewing idea will come from! One of my favorite sources is inspiration from other bloggers; the rich and varied things that come through Google Reader never fail to make me sit up and look at something in a new light!
If you sew, how did you start out? What are your favorite sources of inspiration for sewing projects? I’ll share some of mine in the later installments… Next week: my list of recommended sewing tools.
Yay! I’m excited about this series of posts. I’ve been interested in sewing since I was a kid, but it’s only fairly recently that I’ve been doing it enough to feel like I’m part of the club. (You know, the club that meets in the underground lair where everyone magically gets their sewing chops.) Anyway, I always love seeing your projects, so I’m looking forward to reading more of your general thoughts/opinions/etc about sewing!
This is wonderful, Casey! I cannot wait for the next installment! I just drafted my first pattern this weekend, so I’m totally in the sewing frame of mind. (It’s just an a-line skirt, but you’ve got to start somewhere, right?)
I have only just re-discovered my love for sewing, and recently finding your blog is certainly adding to the fire! I used to sew some of my own clothes when I was younger, and definitely helped my Mom make more than a few costumes for my brother and I. I still remember being transfixed as I’d watch her make the complicated draperies for our house. Her approach was creative, bold, and always taught her something new. I recently completed a couple of VERY simple obi belts of which I am very proud, especially after not touching a sewing machine in over a decade! My mind is full of ideas and things I want to learn and make (not to mention the heaps of alterations awaiting me in my closet already). Oh the possibilities!
I look forward to your next installment! A lovely blog, thank you Casey!
I love this series already! I like hearing about your “early days” and what has inspired you. When will your first patterns come out?
My mom made dresses for my sister and I when we were little, so sewing’s always been a part of my life. I didn’t start making clothes for myself until I took Home Ec in 7th grade, but during grade school I chose the patterns and fabrics for the things my Mom made for me.
I’ve always loved the 30′s and 40′s. I watched all the old movies as a little girl, and sneaked peeks at the contents of my Grandma’s closet. Old movies, and contemporary movies set during the early-mid 20th century are definitely inspirations for me.
I work at a university library and have access to all kinds of resources, including old magazines. Right now I’m reading Claire McCardell’s “What Shall I Wear?” and the 1927 edition of “The New Butterick Dressmaker.” They are both really amazing. I had the Vogue book checked out, but someone recalled it from me.
Goodness, I’ve written book here!
What a cool series! I’ve been impressed (and inspired) by your handmade dresses, but am scared to start sewing myself. I think I’m intimidated by dressmaking because I’m not particularly good at figuring things out visually, so I tend to make a lot of really weird mistakes when I’m trying to get a dress to fit. The last dress I made was back in college and it was a very frustrating experience because I had to make a ton of alterations to the pattern AND I had a lot of trouble with my machine. I’m determined to give it another try, though. I like your attitude — I’ve been sitting on some cute fabric and a simple vintage pattern for a while because I’ve just been too worried about starting it and messing it up, but I figure can only get better once I begin!
This is a great post!!!
I think we started to sew in the similar way, to dolls and barbies
My gave me a small sewingmachine when I was 5, I still have it and it works!
Looking forward to next post!
I am an absolute novice to sewing but already completed converted and desperately wanting to learn and do more. I’m in the process of making my first retro dress and loving it! Unfortunately my borrowed sewing machine has broken so pennies are being saved so I can get on with more out of class. Looking forward to hearing more from you on this subject. Cx
YAY…this post couldn’t have come at a better time! Thank you SO much for this (your words of encouragement are just SO much appreciated). I will be so excited to follow these installments! xoxo.
Dear Casey,
Wow, I LOVE that you are taking the time to do this series! I firmly agree with your opinion that sewing is not brain surgery, and it makes me so sad that fewer and fewer people are learning to sew. It’s such a practical skill that opens up a world of possibilities, besides being buckets of fun
I am a student of costume technology (hoping to become a theatrical draper). I’ve been sewing since I can remember- I used to modify my mother’s collection of 1970s patterns into all sorts of historical costumes. It always amazes me now how many risks I took before I really knew how to sew properly! I think that is what intimidates a lot of people about sewing- as soon as I started to really study it seriously, I only knew enough to know that I was doing everything wrong! I’ve only recently been able to internalize the process of sewing to the point that it’s not so daunting anymore, and I can really sit back and enjoy the process itself and not just the finished product.
Looking forward to the next post!
I did not do much sewing growing up. To be sure, I made a few dolls with the help of my Grandma, and I fooled around on my mom’s sewing machine, but I could never be bothered to learn how to sew properly. Somewhere along the line though, I realized that sewing would be a cool skill to have, if only so I could make my own clothes and make things for my friends (and hopefully, one day have children to sew for). In 2002, I graduated from the University of Delaware with an apparel design degree. I’ve never used the degree professionally, but I love being able to sew, and especially knowing how to draft my own patterns. I sew clothes for myself– many also vintage inspired– and even made my sister’s wedding dress! I’m traveling now for work (I’ve been away from home since May), and one of the things I miss most is my sewing machine! I’ve never in a place longer than 2-3 months, so it isn’t feasible for me to get a machine here. It’s so fun to keep with all of the stuff you’ve been concocting, though! I’m looking forward to this series!
I found you after searching for “vintage dresses” to gain more inspiration for making my own every-day wear. I’m so glad I found you!!! I’m hoping to learn from all the blogs that I’m following…this blogging world is an amazing thing! The sharing of information, and being able to share my own little creations…THIS IS GREAT!! Thanx so much!!!
Oh, I’m so excited by these posts! I started sewing much like you – for dolls, learning from a mom that sews. Now I’ve taken a turn towards making it my profession, which is very exciting (as in – going to school for fashion design/construction). One thing I’ve learned from my patternmaking classes, is how indispensable a clear gridded ruler is. Now I can’t imagine patternmaking or sewing without it!
Looking forward to the rest of the posts!
I’m going to love this series! (And hey, you were homeschooled? I educate my girls at home…) My mom always sewed and often made clothes for me growing up. She made my prom dress and my wedding dress too. But I had no interest in sewing at all until college, which coincided with the quilting revival in the early 90′s. My mom got into quilting and I tried it out too. Pretty soon I got into a habit of sewing a quilt whenever I was home on a break, which was a nice refresher for me. Then I got a roommate with a sewing machine and borrowed it to make lap quilts for friends who were getting married. After that I became a serious quilter and did that for about 10 years. I got into clothing a few years ago, mostly for my daughters. I’ve been learning heirloom techniques and even smocking. I would love to get into vintage clothing for myself…maybe that will be next!
This is wonderful! I am terribly nervous about sewing, but I really want to become great. A year ago I made a quilt and was so proud of myself. You have inspired me to want to make clothing. So I’ve been searching the thrift stores and asking the ladies at church for old patterns. I’ve also asked one of the ladies at church if she will be my sewing mentor and she accepted! This series of yours is really going to help! Thanks!
Oh I love that you are doing this series! My mom was a seamstress and had her own sewing business when I was growing up… she sewed most of our clothes, dolls, etc. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a real interest in learning until I moved 3 states away from her. Figures, right? Now I’m trying to figure it out on my own, partly by reading sewing books, but mostly by trial and error. I am thankful to have some knowledge from watching her sew for so many years…but I have so much more to learn. I can’t wait for your next post on this! You are a true sewing inspiration.
The whole family has been down with a bug – yick.
I was so excited to see this post! My love for sewing comes from my mother and grandmother. I was always in awe of the beautiful things they would make. I remember sitting on my grandmother’s lap sewing stuffed animals with her. Unfortunately, I wasn’t interested in learning until recently. I found Jennie Chancey’s site and was so inspired by her beautiful work I started to kick myself for not learning to sew. Then I found your site and I was so impressed. I love vintage fashion and I was so very happy to find someone as talented as you. 
I bought my first sewing machine right before Christmas and some sewing books. I’ve made several beginner projects and have learned so much from each one. I love it! I am also learning to sew by hand, embroider, and knit. I have homeschooled my son since the first grade. He’s 17! He is self taught in so many things. It’s been a wonderful opportunity for me as well. It have discovered I have so many interests – too many! I love to read and learn new things. Thanks for being so open about your sewing journey. Your words are a gift! Yeah Casey!!!
Oh so fun!! I have just started making plans to sew some summer clothes and this is perfect timing to help me stay on task. I started to sew when I was 12. I was home-schooled too (grades 6-12) and we took a Civil War Reenacting class and I made my costumes and some of those for my sisters and Mom too. I was most excited about the ball gown I made with boning and 15 hand sewn button holes that I got to wear to a real Ball. I also made the bridesmaid dresses for my wedding and my mom made the skirt for my wedding dress. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspirations. I can’t wait to read more entries in this series.
I was thrown into sewing headfirst when I was 25. I started performing at a local renaissance faire (Bristol Ren Faire in WI) and was told that I had to supply my own historically accurate costume! Not only that but because I was a madrigal singer it had to be middle class. YOINKS! Luckily my aunt had just moved back to town, she was a fashion designer AND had done ren faires in CA, so she helped me pull it together (in 3 weeks). Every year after that (11 yrs in all) I naturally had to have a new fabulous costume and I learned by trial and error. Eventually I started to design and make for others (you can see some here- http://consorte_bella_donna.tripod.com/creations/id2.html). Then I branched off into other eras. Most recently I have been doing 20s and 50s because I sing in groups during those eras.
I agree that sewing is such an organic thing and takes more patience than anything. A good seam ripper is worth its weight in gold!
I’m so glad you started this series! I’ll follow it religiously! I think I always wanted to sew my own clothes, replicate marvellous but so expensive things I see and love and I would never be able to buy. Plus, I’m addicted to 50s styles and I buy a lot of vintage but when I need something new I often find it’s difficult to have that same retro vibe.
So last October I finally started to follow real sewing classes, a real 3/4 years course! We already made ten different styles of skirts, from patterns to the real thing and now we’re making different styles of pants. Then we’ll learn how to make tops and a dress (more next year!) and in July we’ll even have a sort of fashion show to showcase some of our creations.
I’m loving everything!
Oh, how I do like your inspiration book! My mama taught my sister and I to sew when we were little – 9, maybe? We had a whole series of books taking us from felt birdies to dolls. I made one jumper and then hit a wall in the form of a curved hem and sort of haven’t sewn much clothing since.
What a lovely entry Casey! Full of inspiration and advice! I have always been the visual artist. I love to style or design wardrobe ensembles together, and stress the details, but have never been a sewing goddess. I can get by with the basics; fairly uncomplicated patterns and a sewing machine, but I have really been trying to get better at the craft of sewing. I want to be able not only to put an outfit together, but to make garments from scratch by looking at pictures and different inspirations.
I recently decided to take a sewing class at the local college, to hopefully refine and work on some of these goals. My mother is wonderful at sewing, and I learned the basics from her, but I would love to take it a step further than that. Not only be able to have an eye for styling and attention to detail of a wardrobe ensemble, but be able to create the garment design as well.
Thanks Casey!
~Syd
What a great idea you have started here! I so enjoyed reading this – it brought back lots of memories! Made me kinda squishy, too! Thanks.
Love,
Mom
Thanks for your words of encouragement, Casey! I’m just starting out so glad to hear it’s not brain surgery (unlike what some people would have you believe). The dresses you make are so fabulous – I hope I can sew on your level some day! (On an unrelated note, I love your blue wall!)
Casey, thank you so much for this post! You have no idea how inspirational it is to me and how glad I am to read it! I’ve been sewing for a couple years but I’ve always felt that I could never really be good at it like you or even my mom. I think I have the basics down, but I want to improve and perfect mostly in tailoring and perhaps one day make my own patterns! I have also been very interested in costume design and feel that sewing would be advantageous towards that field, and seeing that you were mostly self-taught through a lot of reading and studying inspires me to do the same! In fact, I want to go off and finish up those half-finished projects I have right now! I can’t tell you how much I love this post and I look forward to future installments
Thank you so much for doing this little guide. It will help me and others like me who Barely know how to sew on a button.
This is such a wonderful idea. I’ve sewn for a few years (albeit still very amateurly)after watching and learning from both my mum and nanna. I still have so much to learn, and a couple of vintage patterns I really want to get my teeth into, so can’t wait for the next installment.
This is really awesome, even to an adamant nonsewer like myself. Depending on how long it runs and the kind of response you get, you might consider investigating what it would take to edit and package the series into a little book(let) to sell. I mean, this intro alone is the kind of thing the beginner at ANY craft needs most to hear.
I’m looking forward to future installments!
I started out much like you did, stealing scraps and making doll clothes. I did experiment with taking patterns off of clothes I already had in high school and in early years of college. It wasn’t til I had graduated and decided that I wanted to go to a ren fair in full garb that I got serious. I did as you said. Jumped in with both feet and made the most amazing elaborate dress for the fair. Since then I have been sewing like crazy. I have a few of my projects on my block linked above. Currently I am in my retro/ vintage fix. I just can’t get enough of making these beautiful 1940′s recreations!
Got any suggestions for shoppping for vintage patterns?
This is utterly fantastic and I’m so excited for what you have in store for this series. You have made exceptional garments! I started when I was young and handstitched together some barbie clothes from my mother’s scraps too. I took a break while in college as I was consumed by a music degree and then rediscovered my fondness for this art after my parent’s gave me a sewing machine for Christmas the year I graduated. I’ve been full throttle ever since and simply love to sew. I’m completely consumed! Can’t get enough of it?
I’m really glad you are doing this series! And it’s also wonderful to read how others started sewing. I learned in the 7th grade, but the project we did was so boring, I didn’t mentally connect sewing to anything that could be fun. A couple of years later, when I was completely in love with Anne of Green Gables, books and miniseries, I decided to try to recreate Anne’s pinafore that she wears while walking the ridgepole of a roof. Slipping the exact copy of it over my head was like entering a different world…like complete freedom not to be only dressing in the style of the 1990s, but having the ability to pick and choose from decades–centuries–of fashion. Most of my creations now are more wearable, but each gives me a bit of a thrill. And who can say that about jeans?
Casey, what a great look into your background. I learned to sew from my mom as well. Our Barbies always had the coolest and craziest outfits made out of her scraps! And in high school, I worked part time for mom’s drapery buisness during the summer. That was a great education!
How fun to hear about how you fell into sewing! I learned sewing from my mom and started out with historical costumes as a teenager as well (I was a homeschooler, too!), and then veered into theatrical costuming for university theatre productions. After I graduated I did a little bit of professional costuming work but the stress really ate away at my love for sewing. I’m finally starting to rediscover my love for sewing through making vintage inspired clothes for myself, and only accepting costume projects from close friends. It’s blogs like yours that inspire me to keep at it!
I started sewing in college in 2002 when I was studying to get my BFA in costume design. I mainly sewed period pieces for shows–corsets, dresses, crinolines, hoop skirts, and the like. I found your blog during that time and was so swept away and inspired by all of your projects! I’ve been an avid reader ever since.
I ended up not doing costume design but still love to sew. My mother gave me her Bernina and a huge sewing kit for graduation in 2006, which was huge! I usually spend my weekends sewing here in our apartment.
I’m just now getting back into sewing and patternmaking for myself styled after vintage clothing from the ’30s, ’40s, and ’50s. I wanted to make clothes that were tailor made for my body and would have the detailing and style that I was looking for. Plus, who can resist delicious oodly fabric begging to be made into a pretty frock?
I love reading your blog as its such a source of happiness and cheer to keep sewing and learning. It’s fantastic!
xoxo
Sarah
I’ll add my voice to the chorus of praise for this series! I’ve been reading your blog for a while and it (along with a few others) has inspired me to pull the sewing machine out of the cabinet, dust of the vintage vogue patterns and pick some fun material. I learned to sew from my mom and sister as a child, but as an adult I’ve stuck to sewing curtains and Halloween costumes for the kids. Your encouragement has led me to try to use some of the time I was spending searching for clothes that fit in thrift stores to sew some vintage style dresses for myself. Can’t wait for the next installments!
Stacey
I started out sewing Barbie clothes as a small child, around age 4-5. Then when I was 8 my Nana let me use her treadle sewing machine and I learned how to do free-hand embroidery on it. That was such a special time in my life, sewing and embroidering with my Nana. Both my Nana and my mother were seamstresses and worked in the field. When I was older I went to my mother’s work at Elsie’s Bridal in Downey, Ca. after school and to pass the time I was put to work sewing hems and putting in underarm guards. It was fun to see the ladies come in to have their dresses done for their special day. I learned a lot just by watching alterations and fittings. When I married I started right off by making clothes for my babies and then we joined the SCA in 1988 and I got into historical costuming. For a bit when we moved to Boron I worked in a dressmaker’s shop making custom dresses and doing alterations, but eventually I opened my own business selling costumes and doing weddings and have been doing that until I tried to retire this past year. Now with the mine locking my husband out of work I have had to go back to sewing to make ends meet.
Great post, I’m always interested to hear other peoples sewing stories, i was lucky enough to have a mother, grandmother and various aunties who love to sew, quilt, paint embroider you name it so i always had it around me. I am only now, since having a baby and taking time off work getting my passion back for sewing and taking the time to learn more. And the thing i love most about sewing is that anyone can do it and often the best way to learn is by trial and error, sometimes lots of errors, lol.
Ruby Slippers
How exciting! I’ve been enjoying Jennie Chancey’s sewing for a long time. I’ve got a few of her patterns and I’m looking forward to starting to sew. I’m such a newbie…but determined to sew for my 4 year old daughter! Thanks for the encouragement.
This is so cool, Casey – thank you! I’m so looking forward to the rest of your sewing posts. I’m not a great seamstress, but I’m trying to learn. Not taking lessons, though – just jumping in and experimenting with different projects!
A xx
Very interesting! I didn’t know you knew Jennie Chancey.
I started out sewing with instruction from my mom and following patterns with her help. I’m still not much past that stage! lol I wish I were as good as you–even half as good.
It’s inspiring to hear it’s not brain surgery and that there’s not just one way to do things.
I want to do something like that inspiration journal–very neat.
I did not sew growing up other than some rudimentary hand-sewn doll clothes. My mother and grandmother did, alot, back in the 60-70′s. I am self-taught, after a miscarriage in 2007, I learned patchwork first, then moved on to clothes when I got pregnant again later that year and have never stopped with either. I discovered vintage on the internet, and adore the 40′s. I just jumped in and learned by experience. I do keep a journal of ideas drawn from snoop shopping on the internet. Love your blog.
Hi!
I discovered your blog last week, and since I just can’t get out of it! I’m a fan of vintage, especially the fifties, and I love to sew also. So, what a pleasure it was to find a blog like yours! You give me so much inspiration, don’t give up!
Ha ha, from reading the comments I guess I’m not the only one who started out making clothes for Barbie
I actually learned to sew in school (aged 12-15), or the learned the basics at least, like button holes and two ways of adding a zipper. After that it’s been all trial and error, occasionally reading instructions in Burda or somewhere, but being a bit impatient I’ve not been much of a reading instructions-kind-of-gal. Anyway, this was an interesting read, looking forward to the rest of the series!
hello : )
i was just wondering if you resize patterns often, or if you usually get them in your size? would it be simple enough for a beginner to do?