If Claire McCardell is my American sportswear designer idol, then Valentina Schlee (more commonly and simply known as “Valentina” professionally) is the American couturier version. I have long been acquainted with Russian-born designer Valentina; thanks to an article in Threads years ago. I was fascinated by her theatrical personality and the gorgeously simple clothes she created. She was considered one of the New York designers from the 1930s to 50s, catering to the wealthy and upper classes of society. Despite being on par with more well known American couturiers such as Mainbocher and Charles James, she and her work have largely been forgotten.
Since I read that Threads article, I thought it was a shame that no one had authored a comprehensive book on Valentina’s work and her life. Thankfully, Kohl Yohannan (who also wrote an excellent book on Claire McCardell), remedied this situation with a large, glossy book filled with pictures of her work and piecing together Valentina’s life and work. Fascinating in her ability to create a theatrical persona and hide her (probable) humble origins in Russia, Valentina’s life story and impact on fashion as a unique personality fill most of the book. Originally an actress and dancer, her early life is quite obscure as she fled Russia during the upheaval of the Revolution and traveled about Europe for a time before landing in the United States. She had already established her own sense of style: more gothic and simple than the glittery-glamorous looks that permeated the fashion world in the 1920s, and created quite a splash in New York society with her elegantly simple and expertly cut designs. She went on to work with some of the most influential and famous women in the U.S. at the time (including Greta Garbo), and her design house lasted into the 1950s before she closed the doors as demand for fine, custom dressmaking began to decline.
The book is dripping with beautifully reproduced photographs of Valentina’s designs, the performers she costumed, the editorials she modeled for (she was notorious for insisting on being the model to photograph and show her own designs to their fullest potential), and early images of the designer. It’s an amazing compilation of a great designer’s work and her aesthetic. My only disappointment with the book is that it neglects to show the garments in a museum-like setting. In Kohl Yohannan’s book on McCardell, it relies greatly on modern photos of McCardell’s work that is owned by museums. I feel like if images like this had been included in the book, it would have allowed the reader a better view and appreciation for the shaping and detail work on the garments Valentina created. (This was done in the Threads article, much to the delight of my curious eyes!)
Still, that being said, it’s a delightful book that I hope to add to my bookshelf very soon. It not only is a beautiful look at mid-20th century fashion, but a fitting tribute to a long-forgotten and marginalized designer who impacted both the design world and New York society in so many ways.
Oooh, I love the photography and especially how the silhouette is sort of witch-like. That’s very neat.
Thanks for sharing this!
Oh that’s wonderful Casey. I’m going to have to check with my local library for both of his works. I just got a sewing machine and am looking everywhere for inspirations! Thanks.
Wow! That was an interesting post. I like the designs you’ve pictured here – you know, simple is my best friend. I will have to see about getting it at the library.
Mom
i am in a rush this morning and haven’t had a chance to read what you wrote yet, i just clicked cause i was so intrigued and excited by the picture!
I’ll come back and comment again I’m sure but I love this post already!! xo
So nice !
I must admit that I had not heard of her before, though I have a woeful lack of knowledge about fashion designers, etc. She sounds like such a fascinating woman, I love the pictures that you shared.
Hey Casey, you know Claire McC was from Frederick, Maryland? Her family’s home was one of the larger ones a few blocks off Main Street.
Wow, thanks so much for posting about this–I’ve only heard of Valentina from old Anita Loos books, and had no idea about this book!
Such a fun book! Thank you for sharing it!
Thank you for introducing me to this designer! I have to admit I hadn’t heard of her before. I love the pictures, especially the shoes and the shadow in the left of the last picture.
Wow, too gorgeous!
I have always adored Valentina! I am glad you like her as well
I’d never heard of her! Wonderful stuff, thanks for such a great introduction. I doubt this book is published in the UK, but I will find out.
Thanks so much for the introduction to this designer – I love her bold, modern lines!
I love Valentina and her work at the City Museum was just breathtaking.
Of course, McCardell is also one of my idols – did you see they reissued the book she wrote?
If you want the vintage copy, it’s still available (though at a premium – most over $140). However, I have a first edition I was lucky to score (for WAAAY less), so I’ll make sure to take some photos and share with everyone on our blog.
It’s so fabulous to see bloggers recognize the talents of American Women Fashion Designers – yay!