sabrina progress

[ beading the train! I'm using a combination of black sequins and vintage gunmetal gray beads. ]

You would think in the time that has passed since my initial post about this project, I would have managed to get fantastic amounts done. Truth be told, I lost a few days over the past week that have meant I am faced with a half-finished bodice, skirt still in pieces, and party date looming ever closer (how does a couple weekends off sound?). Between last weekend, a house that won’t clean itself, and the oddball habit of liking to eat (so someone had to go grocery shopping), progress is at a snail’s pace! Thankfully though, Sailor Husband has been most understanding and basically told me to just focus on the dress this week. So hopefully that will abate any middle-of-the-night panic attacks about the project. haha!

Before I delve into the particulars of the dress construction, I wanted to show you a snippet of something I’m really excited about: beading the train! So far I’ve set on doing just the hem, and I’m trying not to dream too big–since my time is running out. I managed to bead half the scallops along the border in about 90 minutes, which is pretty good time, in my opinion. It’s definitely a relaxing thing to do in the evening!

I originally decided to go with the bodice design that incorporated a bit of the train fabric into it. However, after getting more than halfway through that, I decided that I didn’t really like the look of it in real life (drawings are one thing, physical execution is another), nor did it do anything to improve my small bustline. After a mini meltdown, a frantic call to my mom, and brainstorming over this project, I went with the plain bodice style. If nothing else, this will allow for the dress to be worn by itself without the train. Versatility is a good thing, right?

[ the dress thus far--excuse the bit of wrinkliness! I've been hauling it off and on the dressform for fittings... ]

I’m using a combination of techniques I’ve read about in Bridal Couture and Couture Sewing, and less time consuming shortcuts that I use on a regular basis. I’ve had both those books in my shelves for years, and have been itching for a project I can utilize the couture way of doing things. Although I am realistically picking my poison since I’m on such a time crunch. But things like underlining, hand basting, etc. are coming in to play. The bodice is almost done, and I’m really pleased with the fit and shape. It’s got 11 bones in it (I plan on wearing a foundation garment underneath, otherwise I’d be making some custom bust pads to further shape and support), all of which are stitched to the cotton underlining. That has been hand basted to each matching piece of the bodice around the edges. The underlining and dress fabric pieces are treated as one, and stitched together. I’ve left 1″ seams at the side and center back to allow for adjustment (both now and in the future. It’s always good to have a little wiggle room!).

The skirt has been pretty straight forward: I decided to fully line it to allow the skirt to lay smoothly and glide over the legs, rather than get caught to bunch up. Initially I went back and forth about whether to do pleats in the front, or darts. I decided on darts in the end, although they need to be slightly adjusted (I’m finding that there are little tweaks that didn’t show up in the muslin, but are very apparent in the satin!). Thus far, I haven’t gotten very far past fitting the skirt and marking adjustments–hopefully tomorrow I’ll get to it!

September 24, 2009 · 35 lovely thoughts
posted in casey's musings,sewing · tags: sewing