March 10th, 2010
If you like to sew with vintage patterns, you know they can be quite fragile in their original state. Or maybe the pattern you have in mind is not quite the right size and you need to grade it up or down and need it in a form that you can cut up. I thought I’d show you the method I use for tracing my vintage patterns. This tutorial shows was done with an unprinted pattern, but I’ve added comments when needed to adjust for those with printing (rather than perforations of unprinted).
You will need a few supplies: paper (you can use inexpensive banner paper from the office supply store, exam table paper, blank newsprint, or Swedish interfacing), ruler and/or yardstick, pencil, fine tip marker, paper scissors, pattern weights (I use large metal washers from the hardware store), pins (for printed patterns only), and a flat surface (in this case, a cutting mat).
Begin by ironing all the pieces on the lowest heat setting for your iron, without steam. If in doubt, test on a piece of paper first to make sure your iron won’t scorch the paper. You need to iron out any wrinkles or deep folds in the pattern pieces so they’ll lie flat. Just be careful not to tear the pieces.
Lay the paper on a flat surface. Arrange the pattern pieces on top with pattern weights atop to help straighten the pattern and keep it flat. If the piece has a straight edge (such as the one pictured with the center-front edge to be placed on folded fabric), you can lay that alongside the straight edge of the paper to reduce one more edge to trace.
Begin tracing around the edges of the pattern with the pencil. I tend to sketch around curves and uneven edges, and make dash marks every 8″-12″ along straight edges that I can fill in with a ruler after the pattern is removed.
Be sure to mark all the circles, notches and diamonds! When transferring a dart marking, I indicate those with small dots and connect them later with a ruler for a complete dart shape. If you’re tracing a printed pattern, I tend to pierce through the pattern and paper beneath with a pin to indicate a pattern marking. After the pattern is removed, I go back and add the mark with the pencil or marker.
Remove the pattern piece and fill in any spots with the ruler/yardstick. I also indicate all darts and grainlines at this point too.
Finally fill in the pattern information: company, number, size, piece and quantity to be cut with marker (if this is a final piece; if you’re using it to grade the pattern, you don’t need all the information). I also like to include notes on seam allowances, darts, hem depth, etc. on the pattern piece. Now you can cut the pattern out and start on the important thing: sewing!
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Posted to: sewing, tutorial. | 15 lovely thoughts
March 8th, 2010
Note:I’m taking a break this week from the Guide to Sewing series. Be back next Monday with the third installment!
I like doing a post every few months showing some of the vintage snapshots that have been accumulating in my Flickr favorites (a.k.a. my “virtual inspiration file”). High fashion is all good and I find it intensely inspiring, but sometimes it’s fun to see what average people were wearing way back when! I love seeing how they interpreted trends and silhouettes of the period–I tend to look at these photos as the forerunners of our modern “street style” images!
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Posted to: vintage inspiration. | 23 lovely thoughts
March 5th, 2010
[ please click for the sources of these beautiful images! ]
I have some big plans for this weekend because my mom is coming to visit! I’m super excited as she’ll be here all next week and we’ve scheduled some fun things like thrifting trips, afternoon tea, visiting Anthropologie, and spending some time sewing. I dare say posting will be a bit sparse (although I have a couple posts up my sleeve), and I will apologize beforehand for any delay in email replies. But I’m hoping we’ll have some fun thrifting finds to show off, as we have two days we’ve set aside exclusively for that.
[ 1937 fashion report. click for the large view to read the text. ]
This week’s inspiration comes from a 1937 Home Arts magazine. Not only is this a page full of fantastic style inspiration from the late 30s, but the author (a “Needle-Minded New Yorker”) points out details and materials the home seamstress could use to make her own less-expensive copies. I’m personally loving the blouse designs to death–right now my wardrobe is in need of a few new tops.
Off to finish some neatening up and getting things ready for my mom’s arrival (and a much needed morning cup of tea!). Have a lovely weekend, friends!
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Posted to: vintage inspiration, weekly inspiration. | 11 lovely thoughts
March 4th, 2010
[ click for a larger view. ]
This is a project that has actually been finished for a couple weeks, but because I kept forgetting to get photos, it’s taken me a bit to do a blog post! After seeing Reilly’s charming version of this pattern a bit back, I bought myself a copy of the reprint pattern–I couldn’t resist the easy-fit and elegant lines of the slacks! It’s taken me quite a bit to complete this project (it was just one of those things that stretched out over weeks; not because it was difficult, but that I just snuck in sewing in little slots of time), but was so worth it!
[ the reproduction pattern from the Vintage Fashion Library. ]
The slacks pattern, a reprint of an original 30s pattern, was like many from the era in needing some fitting modifications. What is commonly referred to as the “diaper look” among many vintage seamstresses; older pants patterns often have very long crotch seams. Sometimes this results in pants that look like they’re hanging around your knees! So I tend to automatically adjust the crotch length before I begin. I also reduced the amount of width in the back upper legs and front inner seam. This helped create a more fitted backside, which I find is just more flattering. The usual waist and hip adjustments were made too, along with raising the front upper edge a bit to accommodate for my long torso and high waist.
[ click for a larger view. ]
The final pants (after a muslin fitting!) were made from light-tan linen/rayon blend. I thought about doing a darker, more “practical” color, but really had my heart set on a light colored linen. White or cream doesn’t work with me–I’m too clumsy to be trusted not to get anything on a light colored bottom within the first five minutes of wearing! So tan was the next best thing (and also fit into the “practical” category as it goes with a lot in my wardrobe). The belt buckle is a vintage shell one I bought on Etsy. Perhaps one of the biggest design changes I made with this pattern is to move the zipper from the front (originally the zipper is installed along the front over the hip) to the left side. The original look seemed too sporty for the more sophisticated fabric color, plus I like side zippers!
[ sorry things are a bit wrinkly--I was just sitting at my computer before I took these! ]
These are super comfortable–I could seriously wear these forever! lol. I would say they’re akin to yoga pants in the softness and looseness of the cut. Plus, I love how flattering the shape is, compared to most slacks. The 30s definitely knew how to cut pants for a woman’s shape!
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Posted to: sewing. | 51 lovely thoughts
March 3rd, 2010
[ sneak peek of my weekend sewing. ]
Thank you everyone for your great music suggestions yesterday! I spent way too much time on iTunes, adding things to my wish list and whittling down what I want to buy. hehe! Now I just need to make my final decision… But I shall want for some new music no more!
[ just needs a couple star appliques (on the way) to complete the collar! ]
Saturday dawned cold and dreary, but I was cozily tucked away in my little corner with my sewing machine and Lauren’s reprint pattern for a 40s sailor outfit. I spent literally all of Saturday working on this pattern–I went in my “sewing room” before 8am and didn’t really come back out until around 5pm. It felt so nice to spend the day sewing though, not having had much opportunity for the past couple weeks.
[ buttons on the shorts. ]
These are just a few snippets of the final outfit, as I’m waiting on some buttons I ordered for the skirt. I found the perfect buttons shown above on a recent fabric shopping excursion, but there were only six–just enough for the shorts! I just can’t wait to have proper weather to wear the outfit (and take some full pictures to share!). Especially to wear this while traipsing around town with Sailor Husband. lol. I have just the accessory for this outfit: an old “dixie cup” hat that was my husbands (I get the old uniform cast offs. hehe!), so I daresay I will venture out fully attired at some point…
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Posted to: sewing. | 22 lovely thoughts
